Author Topic: How to make a 1/2 moon box call  (Read 29055 times)

Offline Heirloom

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How to make a 1/2 moon box call
« on: September 22, 2009, 02:13:26 PM »
The 1/2 moon box call is, for me anyways, the easiest of the box calls to make. In this tutorial, we will go over the steps to make a a great sounding, good looking call. The basic tools required for this are a table saw, bandsaw or scroll saw (can be substituted with a coping saw), a sander, finishing supplies, screw driver, 1 1/4 drywall screw, and spring to go under the lid.

For this project, a 6 inch box call, I chose to make the call from Cocobolo, cherry, sassafras for the box portion of the call.


First step is to cut the side boards. The sassafras and cherry are starting out as 1 x 6. I like to use this over sized wood so I don't have to get to close when cutting the 1/8 inch thick side boards. Set your table saw fence so you have a 1/8 in thick slice with the blade 2" high. Then CAREFULLY rip the side boards by sawing the boards on edge.



Now set your fence to 2 inches and cut the thin strips off the board. be sure and use your push board.

Next, set your saw blade angle to 5 degrees. The cocobolo blank for this call is 1 1/2 inches square. So i set the blade to a height at 1 1/4 inches. Then set the fence so you have 1/8 inch of material left at the BOTTOM of the blade. Next rip the length of each side so you have an angled groove the length of the piece. After the cuts are made, your piece should look like this.


Now, dry fit your side boards. Now is the time to take the sander out and clean them up. Don't sand more than you need to fit the pieces together.


Once the dry fit is good, mark and cut out the 1/2 moon in the base piece with a bandsaw, scroll saw or even a coping saw if you don't have either of these power saws.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER that the 1/2 moon shape should NOT go completely to the bottom of the board grooves you cut in the base piece. I like to have a shallow groove about 1/8 deep left after I cut out the 1/2 moon shape.



OK, we're getting towards finishing up. get out the sand paper, and sand all the pieces to clean them up of splinters and what not then glue it up.


Now while the glue dries, go ahead and choose some wood for the paddle. I picked walnut. The piece should be about 3 inches longer than the box itself. In this case 9 inches.

Now shape and sand the profile on the bottom. I found it easiest to sand the curve in the bottom of the lid first, then go back and cut the handle shape. The arc for the bottom should be about the same as it is on a 3 1/2 inch diameter circle, give or take.
While your sanding, now might be a good time to go back to the box portion of the call and sand off the extra on the ends and shape the side boards. Just BE SURE the glue is dry.
Also, apply any finish you plan do on the call AFTER you sand the ends but BEFORE you shape the tops of the side boards. In other words, do all your final sanding and finishing BEFORE you shape the top edges of the side boards.
After your finish is dry, go back and shape the top edges of the side boards in a gentle arc.
Your call is done, chalk it up and let 'ER rip.


Tuning is such a matter of preference that I leave that up to you, however, here are some general things to remember while building and tuning the call are....
1. The thicker the side boards, the higher the pitch.
2. The thicker the paddle the higher the pitch
3. If you lengthen the call, you need to thicken the side boards some to make up for the extra length.
4. The taller the side boards above the top of the 1/2 moon saddle the deeper the call pitch.
5. Take BABY steps while tuning, just a little bit of sanding can make a MAJOR difference in the sound of the call.

I hope this was able to help you with making your call. There are alot of variables to consider as you tune the call. With a bit of practice, you can have a great time and make a great sounding call. The measurements and sizes I used here are general. They will produce a call that is pretty much in the midrange f turkey sounds.
PLEASE BE CAREFUL AND USE ALL THE SAFETY FEATURES when you make your call.
You can embellish your call however you like but I would suggest you keep the embellishments to the base portion of the call. Have fun and be careful.
Brian

Brian Warner
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Offline jleiwig

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Re: How to make a 1/2 moon box call
« Reply #1 on: September 22, 2009, 03:52:54 PM »
Thanks for the tutorial.  Makes me wish I hadn't sold my tablesaw to fund my lathe purchase.

Offline VECtor Calls

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Re: How to make a 1/2 moon box call
« Reply #2 on: September 22, 2009, 06:00:17 PM »
Great write-up bud!  It looks awesome!

Parker
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Offline Jeff @ Mutt Calls

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Re: How to make a 1/2 moon box call
« Reply #3 on: September 22, 2009, 07:09:20 PM »
Brian, that is very cool.  Pretty work as always!

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Offline Heirloom

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Re: How to make a 1/2 moon box call
« Reply #4 on: September 22, 2009, 10:33:15 PM »
 :thanks: i didn't spend alot of time on this one. I just wanted to get the basics for folks to start with. from wht there is here, there should be no problem prettying it up with some checkering, router work or waht ever you like. This will give you a nice sounding box call with miniml waste. The peice you cut out for the 1/2 moon may be big enough to turn another call or pen from. If you rip the side boards off from both sides of a 3/4 inch board, you have enough left in the middle to make the paddle from. Again,  :thanks: for the compliments and i hope y'all can use this.
Brian Warner
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Offline Willy Bill

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Re: How to make a 1/2 moon box call
« Reply #5 on: September 26, 2009, 08:35:06 PM »
  :2up:
Great!!! This one answers a lot of questions.
It's even got pictures to help a feeble mind like mine.
Thanks for all the time you put into posting this for us. :bigup: