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61
General Call Making Discussions / Re: Unacceptable Runout
« Last post by ben on December 06, 2019, 11:06:25 AM »
In addition to Fred's comment I do not think you could re-thread the adapter and it to be usable. I would go back to psi for another adapter, like Fred I have never had a problem with psi collet chucks. And when you get it running correct drill the hole in your barrel blank and then use the mandrel so it will be true.

ben
62
General Call Making Discussions / Re: Unacceptable Runout
« Last post by FDR on December 05, 2019, 07:02:22 PM »
What brand of collet chuck?  What thread are you adapting from/to?

Reason I ask: I have 3 PSI collet checks and they have all performed great with an expanding mandrel.  I also have the Beall collet chuck and it runs fine with a mandrel. The PSI chucks come with an adapter in the box to be used depending on your lathe nose thread.

With the PSI collet chucks you have to install the collet into the knurled nut, first, before you assemble the chuck or the mandrel will not run true!
Just snap the collet into the nut, I place the nut face  down on the table and snap the collet in place, then you screw the collet/nut assembly into the chuck body, insert the mandrel and finish tightening the chuck.
If you don't follow the steps, exactly, the mandrel will not run true.

Fred
63
General Call Making Discussions / Re: Unacceptable Runout
« Last post by Jordan Bell on December 05, 2019, 04:27:14 PM »
I would be surprised if the spindle nose is bent as the center that I have been using screws on with no issues. I would not expect the adapter to be bad as it came from PSI and the general consensus seems to be great on their work, but i guess it could be possible.
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General Call Making Discussions / Re: Unacceptable Runout
« Last post by FDR on December 05, 2019, 04:00:53 PM »
Never had any problem with the collet chuck it self. Either the adapter is bad or the lathe spindle nose is bent. If you know anyone that is a woodturner try the collet chuck on their lathe.
What a machinist would do is turn and thread the adapter on the lathe it will be used on. Not an option on your wood lathe I'm afraid.

Fred
65
General Call Making Discussions / Unacceptable Runout
« Last post by Jordan Bell on December 05, 2019, 10:17:00 AM »
I need some advice from the call makers in the group.

I bought a few year old Harbor Freight lathe from a buddy. It's not the benchtop mini, but one with a 40" bed and best i can tell a lot fewer features.

That being said, I spent the first week or so with it turning some stuff between centers for fun. Was able to make a couple barrels with no bore just to see what i could do and learn a little bit (hoping i can bore them after the fact on drill press as i left the bottom inch or so unturned).

Now i want to get started in my journey with call making and my father in law lent me his collet chuck and 5/8" mandrel. First issue was the thread size/count so i ordered an adapter from PSI that came in last night.

I installed it and the collet chuck and cut the lathe on and MY GOD the runout. I'm talking rattle all the tools off the bench wobble. I have been messaging with Joey D'Amico for some advice on other things and he pointed out that it looked like the adapter was threaded at an angle.

I removed it and re threaded it as carefully as possible and got it as close as i could to the headstock. There is maybe just the smallest of runout just on the end of the adapter but by time i put on the chuck body, nut and mandrel, it becomes unusable.

By the way, I have read on here that some people have this issue from not assembling the chuck correctly. I have done that and dont think it's the issue, as just the chuck body on the spindle adapter and there is already a good amount of runout.

Any advice?
66
Handcrafting Custom Duck Calls / Re: Inserts are whooping my but.
« Last post by Mann Lock @ Hollow Wing Calls on November 27, 2019, 10:59:33 AM »
I would do what Ben suggested.  Before I put mine in a jig, I always spin the insert on a 1/4" mandrel and mark the high spot.  Put this up in the jig and the holes are always perfectly center.
67
Handcrafting Traditional Reelfoot Duck Calls / Re: Reed Punch for metal reed calls
« Last post by Wade@WEBFoot on November 20, 2019, 02:51:38 PM »
I am making a punch for a customer (with permission from Fred).  I had emailed him to let him know about it and see if he needed anything or knew of anyone needing one while I was at it.  I was hoping that if there was another person or two interested, I could surprise my customer with that and the better price - since heat treat is a notable chunk of the cost since its just a one off.  But Im guessing he knows Im sort of looking now :P  All in good fun!  I may still have another surprise for them, we'll have to see...

No way to know what the end cost will be without knowing how many Im making (and if its more than one more - as I ordered a second set of blanks in case I screw up one, Id have to add to the material order I already made - but can be done)

If its just one punch, north of $1000 is quite possible.  Heat treat for one punch is likely going to be 275.00 - but that is assuming they can heat treat the  die plates and the punch plate all in the same batch.  But if the thicknesses are too great between the two parts of the punch, they may have to do two batches, one for the die plates and one for the punch material.  So there is a chance that heat treat could be over 500 just for one punch - but Im optimistic that they can do the die plates and the punch blank in one batch.  Now, add 1 punch, and that cuts the heat treat in half for the two punches.  Add a third, and its cut in thirds etc...  the ole economy of scale at play.  Add in being able to prep more blanks for the punch at one time, prior to heat treat, and post heat treat prep, and then being able to wire out more than one of the same thing, and that helps bring costs down as well.

That all said...  figure at least $1000, so then when it gets calculated out - worst case - its what you planned on...  and best case, its cheaper.  Err on the side of caution to reduce the unpleasant surprises and all that jazz.

Email me via the online store if you have questions or want to get a deposit in on one.

And Thanks Fred!!! for allowing folks to use your designs for the reeds and the jigs!

Wade
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Handcrafting Traditional Reelfoot Duck Calls / Re: Reed Punch for metal reed calls
« Last post by BigB on November 19, 2019, 08:57:33 PM »
Any idea on cost.

ben



Benny, probably going to be north of $1000

Brian
69
Handcrafting Traditional Reelfoot Duck Calls / Re: Reed Punch for metal reed calls
« Last post by FDR on November 19, 2019, 07:00:26 PM »
Fred, is this for a reed punch or for a toneboard jig?  I heard he was doing a batch of jigs, but not reed punches.
Brian: my understanding, in talking with Wade, is that he will consider doing a small run of reed punches if there is enough interest. Ben, contact Wade for a cost estimate. I'm pretty sure that the final cost will depend on the number of punches in the run. Wade made a very good punch for me that has held up very well. The design also allows for easy sharpening if/when the punch gets dull.
If you know anyone that wants a punch help spread the word. I believe that we would see a lot more Reelfoot style calls made if a good reed punch were available. I gave Wade my permission to use my reed design for the punch run so that the reed produced would work with my tutorial published here on THO. Wade's Reelfoot tone board jig also works with my tutorial.

Fred
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Handcrafting Custom Duck Calls / Re: Inserts are whooping my but.
« Last post by Wes on November 19, 2019, 08:14:41 AM »
While you are trying to make inserts just go get some 5/8 dowel rods at the local big box or hardware store. Use those to learn on rather than taking the time to turn each one. Once you get a decent sound you are happy with then go back to good wood.
     Wes
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