THO Game Calls Forums
The Art of Handcrafting Custom Game Calls => Handcrafting Custom Duck Calls => Duck & Goose Call Making Tutorials => Topic started by: Bob from Eames Custom Calls on April 12, 2009, 04:15:24 PM
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This is the second part of the tutorial, just decided to break it up to keep the sections small. You'll want to go through the same procedure to drill your block for the insert that you did for the barrel, so I won't go through the setup twice. I showed this with a block of clear acrylic to better show the setup of using the drill bit and a washer as a blind mandrel. Thanks to Marvin (Dogcatcher) for showing me this trick when I first started out.
Drill your tone channel hole to depth.
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg194/EamesCustomCalls/tutorials/SANY0337.jpg)
Take the same drill bit you used to drill the hole with and chuck it up in a drill chuck mounted in the headstock of your lathe. Put a 1/4" washer over the drill bit to act as a clutch of sorts, this will save your work if you get a really bad catch...... sometimes! The drill chuck was one I found at harbout freight for $12.
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg194/EamesCustomCalls/tutorials/SANY0338.jpg)
Slide the insert blank on to the bit, and move the tailstock up to add pressure to the end. Tighten the tailstock and lock it down. The pressure from the tailstock allows you to keep the piece spinning with the drive, so if it starts to slip, tighten up the tailstock to add a bit more pressure. PLEASE NOTE:The drill bit should be shorter than the depth of the hole! The Blank will ride between the washer next to the drill chuck and the live center in the tailstock. Make sure that the drill bit doesn't bottom out in the hole or it will mess up the end of your tone channel and become loose!
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg194/EamesCustomCalls/tutorials/SANY0340.jpg)
There you go guys, just enough info to get you into trouble. Go make some chips and post up some pictures!
Bob
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Very cool :bigup: :bigup: :bigup:
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Again, thats how I do it. Ive been making some wood crow call guts here and there, and this is how I turn them to shape, before I split them. This method keeps the tone channel nice and straight.
I was driling them out on the metal lathe, but this has proven just as good and in most cases, better.
Good work.
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Thanks....I think this is just enough to get me in to some sort of trouble... ::)
I am going to try a sprig whistle as my first project. I had been waiting until I could afford the collet chuck from PSI..I had not considered using a jacobs chuck.....especially a HF one.
Thanks, I am going to try this whistle plan from Pete Woolley.
http://thogamecalls.com/forums/index.php/topic,1499.0.html (http://thogamecalls.com/forums/index.php/topic,1499.0.html)
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I've done several, and his plan works great. Good luck with it, and post up a picture or two when you get it done!
Bob
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Thanks Bob I will (don't hold your breath waiting though...my projects can drag on for ages).
I have a pack of 1" cocobolo pen blanks that should work up nicely.
I was real happy to find his post on that whistle....once I read it I knew I could turn one (eventually that is).
Seven bucks at HF for the chuck and I have no more excuses....
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What is the overall length you cut these down to before drilling? Raw Stock
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What is the overall length you cut these down to before drilling? Raw Stock
This will depend on your design and the jig you are using. Start with 5" and work in or out for what you want. I have one design I use 4" blanks on another I use 5.5", but if I switch jigs they go to 4.5" and 6".
Marvin
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Mine are 4" inserts, but usually end up about 3 3/4".
Marvin is right, it's all dependent on your design!
Bob
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If I want to have a tapered tone channel (so the hole gets bigger at the end of the insert, I don't know the proper term fro this) would I drill starting with a 1/4" drill bit go to my wanted length, then take say a 3/8" bit and only go down a very small part of the insert, and keep doing that till you get the wanted size? Also would I still be able to use the 1/4" drill bit with a washer still as a mandrel?
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:bow:I am really new to this forum but I wanted you to be the first one i contacted. Before I saw your tutorial I wasted so much wood I thought about giving up inserts and basically calls. I may have gotten 2 of ten right. I know that doesnt say much about my wood working skills but I got tired of using 2" wood to get a 5/8 insert because of bad drilling. I used all kinds of jigs and devices to hold it straight. Nothing worked for long. I saw the tutor. and started using it and I cant say its foolproof, cause being pretty much of one, anything can be screwed with enough effort.But I really can say I havent messed one up since. I have gained years of knowledge from this forum and want to say to all you experienced turners, thanks from the bottom of my heart and my wood stack. Ray Finchum
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Thanks Bob for the tutorial. I too, like Mr. Finchum, have blown through some blanks trying to get it right. If I may ask, once you turn in down to your intended design, what system do you use to step drill the exhaust? My problems have arisen when I try to take the piece off the set up and use a different set up to finish up the details on the end. (step drilling, rounding and sanding the end, etc...? Thanks in advance.
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:thanks: :thanks: :thanks:
Fantastic tutorial!! Never would have thought of ding it this way!! I use 2 lathes :stickman1:
Thanks again!
Fuzzy
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If I want to have a tapered tone channel (so the hole gets bigger at the end of the insert, I don't know the proper term fro this) would I drill starting with a 1/4" drill bit go to my wanted length, then take say a 3/8" bit and only go down a very small part of the insert, and keep doing that till you get the wanted size? Also would I still be able to use the 1/4" drill bit with a washer still as a mandrel?
I know this thread is pretty old at this point, but I'm assuming the answer to this would be to use a step bit? I think using different individual bits would give a "tiered" exhaust rather than a gradual increase in diameter? I am not good enough to start messing with my own inserts yet, so I haven't played with this. In response to still using a 1/4" bit, not sure it would work. I'd expect you to have some serious runout. But like I said, I know next to nothing! :stuart:
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If I want to have a tapered tone channel (so the hole gets bigger at the end of the insert, I don't know the proper term fro this) would I drill starting with a 1/4" drill bit go to my wanted length, then take say a 3/8" bit and only go down a very small part of the insert, and keep doing that till you get the wanted size? Also would I still be able to use the 1/4" drill bit with a washer still as a mandrel?
I know this thread is pretty old at this point, but I'm assuming the answer to this would be to use a step bit? I think using different individual bits would give a "tiered" exhaust rather than a gradual increase in diameter? I am not good enough to start messing with my own inserts yet, so I haven't played with this. In response to still using a 1/4" bit, not sure it would work. I'd expect you to have some serious runout. But like I said, I know next to nothing! :stuart:
Follow the step bit with one of these for a smooth exhaust>
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-stepless-drill-bits-66463.html
Fred
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Question for the guys who use this method and produce good results. Do you ever have trouble with your tool catching enough to make the wood stop spinning? I tried this method recently on my first insert, and it took me FOREVER to turn it down to 5/8" due to the fact that I couldn't hardly press the tool to the piece. My first thought to fix this is to turn just a small section down to 5/8" so I can insert in the 4 jaw and turn the rest that way. I'd appreciate any feedback or tricks you guys use.
Thanks
Michael