Help needed on grunt hole sizes

[patcatman]

Hey everybody -
I'm working on some grunt calls - already have turned the barrels and used a 3/4" for my hole. 

That's not my concern because I can turn the stopper any size I need to fit. 
My question is - what size do you guys drill for the guts - alot of people have said 1/2" - but I tested on some scrap and found that the guts are not tight enough with that size and I tried a 31/64" - nice fit. 

Does Al's guts fit snug in the 1/2" or are all the grunt guts out there the same?  31/64" fit.  I think I bought some from Grassy Creek awhile back - before I found THO.
I'm waiting on some from Al now.

Are you guys using glue?  I really don't care to do that - but if that is what is needed.

Thankful for any suggestions or help.
Pat

[Heirloom]

Pat, I usually drill at 31/64 myself. It's only 1/64 difference but any loosness in your drilling will show up. I just friction fit my guts in there, allows for easy cleaning and replcement. Hope it helps.

[JThomas]

Same here 31/64 no glue........... ;D

[patcatman]

Are you guys using a special 31/64 mandrel or a pen mandrel with 1/2" expanding bushings?

[Bill]

I have bought reeds from Tho and Game Call -Hut Products and I use 1/2 inch drill bit for both
I have turned wood stoppers that fit my pen mandrel they taper from 3/8 to 1 inch and that seems to work just fine for turning.

http://thogamecalls.com/forums/index.php?topic=497.0

If you look at the pics you will see my wood stoppers

Bill
PS   No glue on the reeds

[Heirloom]

I use the 1/2" expanding rubber bushings on a 7 mm mandrel. At least until I can get the coin saved up for Marvin's mandrels. I also have the taper plugs like Bill. I use them too just not as often. It all depends n my mood I guess. Either one works good so go with what your comfortable with.

[dogcatcher]

First what type of drill bit do you use?  My recommendation is to stay away from spade bits, they follow the path of least resistance, and the hole is not straight nor round.  Next you cannot judge a an unfinished hole as to the size, when you put a finish in the inside it will be smaller, not much but it will be smaller.

I use 1/2" jobber drill bits, with 2 or 3 coats of finish I haven't had a problem with the size.   Another factor to consider, when someone starts using the call the humidity from their breath will cause the wood to swell, and if the guts are to tight it might crack the wood. 

Next, 1/64" is so minor when considering the natural movement of the wood, the thickness of the finish, the accuracy of a straight drilled hole and finally the accuracy of your drilling method it won't even come into play.  Look at the shape of the wedge on the guts, it will account for almost all of the errors of above, but trying to drill the hole out larger is a nightmare.

Marvin

[Heirloom]

I hve some of those brad point drill bits. They work great in the right places but I refer the jobber style points for drilling the call blanks. I also have a full set of forstners but the plain jobbers just seem to suit me.

[dogcatcher]

I don't know what it is but for some unknown reason forstner and brad point bits seem to make the hole a bigger than a jobber bit.  Only a guess but I think that the jobber bit creates more heat and that is the reason the hole is smaller than the bit size.  But I do know that with the molded guts you better stick with the jobber, they are almost always a good fit.

Marvin

[Heirloom]

I discovered a new trick, to me nyays, for whn the hole is just a bit too small for the molded guts. This is when using the 31/64 bit. I took my 1/2 countersink and SLOWLY turned it on in there. It cleaned up the hole ncely and made for a great fit. I only went in about 1/2 inch or so. The little bit of taper that is left at the bottom of the hole is nice for the guts to seat into.

[crazy_cottontail]

i use reamers. I have found that it works better for me to drill a little small and rough turn and give the material a break to let its stress out. I have seen material do weird things. Part of the relaxation for me is working with wood is a different experience than machining steel and aluminum all day. Wood is no different it just has a different grain structure. I`ve had blanks that i turned and started wet sanding then took of the mandrel to dry a couple of days and i almost always end up sending the reamer though it by hand to open it up a little. Maybe i take it a little to precise but thats my way around it. Later

                                                           Rich

[Heirloom]

Nothing wrong with that Rich. The time taken today will show in the years to come when those cals are still here and working like the dy they were built. ;D

[patcatman]

Thanks for all the responses guys.

I got my grunt guts in the mail from Al today - and what do ya know - they fit perfect in a 1/2" hole.  

I don't know where I bought the last set - it was almost a year ago - but they have to go in a 31/64" hole for a good fit.

And I agree - a jobber bit makes for a nicer, truer hole - I think.

Pat

[VECtor Calls]

Pat, just keep in mind you can get one of those hand reamers from Grizzly that work great for stuff like that, and they're just a couple bucks.  I use mine a lot.

Parker

[Curmudgeon]

Well, now that you have your answers I'll just add Ii have the same problem with the sets made for 1/2. They seem too small.
Just the thickness of a couple coats of urethane can make all the difference. The calls I have the trouble with are just soaked in BLO and buffed, no other fininsh. I have even considered turning a new tennon and gluing it up to get a smaller hole. I have been able to seat the reed by putting a wrap of masking tape around it. If you trim it well, it looks OK, but I know that's not good  enough  to call it fixed. I bought a 31/64 last night and hope that does the trick!