Spar won't dry!!!

[Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks]

I have my own opinions on finishing but I'd like to hear what you all have to say.  

When I started callmaking I used Deft spray laquer.  Then I started reading comments about how it isn't a very durable finish for use on a call because of things like rain, humidity, bug spray and scratches.  I had a laquer finish fail on a walnut call one time, due to bug spray I believe, and I ended up refinishing the call with another finishm (and have a happy repeat customer).  I have dozens and dozens of calls that were finished in laquer all over the country and have never had a complaint other than the one I mentioned.

But, I'm one of those guys that bags on Deft as being too weak to provide a durable finish that can see use in the field.  That's based on what I know about laquer for general woodworking applications.  On tables it gets water rings if you sit a glass on it, etc.  Plus it scratches easy.  Any solvent based finish that dries in 30 minutes is usually a weak one.  So now I use spar urethane on some of my calls, and Waterlox polymerized tung oil on some.  Love them both.  Never had a doubt about the durability of either and still don't.

So here's my dilemma.  I'm working on a spalted maple turkey pot that has a walnut top rim.  I shot it with a light coat of Minwax Helmsman spar...Because I accidentally grabbed that instead of the Cabot stuff at Lowes.  Helmsman dries slower in my experience.  Three days later, the spar is still tacky.  Not even close to ready for a 2nd coat.  It is in my air conditioned basement, so I can't blame the humidity.  It is killing me and I'm dreading telling my customer that one of his calls is ready and the other hasn't dried yet...The other one is curly maple and I used waterlox on it...Dry!  No idea what is going on here.

I'm seriously tossing around the idea of sanding the spar off this one and shooting it with several coats of Deft.  Those of you that use the stuff, what are your experiences with it?  Durable enough, or should I follow my own advice and leave the laquer for my other woodworking?  

[Chris at Owens Custom Calls]

KC,
I too was using the spray deft until i read here that it was junk.  I switched to a ca finish, but it is not something i enjoy doing.  spar was my next choice and i absolutely love it.  The only times I have found that spar won't dry is usually when an oily wood is involved (think cocobolo) or if you don't cut it with MS.  I use unwaxed shellac to fill the grain, then apply a 50/50 spar finish and have had no problems.  You didn't mention cutting the spar, so I would assume that is why it is taking so long to dry.  

[Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks]

Thanks for your response.  I'm using rattle can spar for its ease of application.  This is not an oily wood, so that is what has me stumped.

[dogcatcher]

I have no idea of what caused the problem, sometimes "it" just happens.  As far as lacquer, I used before all of the complaints about it and I used after.  No complaints that I know of.  I used to have a car that had a lacquer finish, a custom finish, hand rubbed etc..  Last time I saw it, it still looked great, and that is after over 30 years of west Texas weather. 

Marvin

[VECtor Calls]

Only thing left to do that I can think of is get some air moving on it.   

Parker

[Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks]

Going to toss that call in the trash unfortunately.  The customer has kindly agreed to a curly maple call with a waterlox finish.    

Also going to trash the Minwax spar.  I've had great luck with the Cabot spar so I'll make sure that's what I pick up in the future.

[dogcatcher]

I have used the Minwax and the Cabot spar, and I prefer Minwax, it all depends on what is in stock.  My guess is they are so close to the same "recipe" that most people would not know the difference.  Before you throw it away, take and add a small amount of turpentine and mix it up real good and try it on a scrap piece of wood.  Like I said sometimes "it" happens and just won't work, sometimes it will work the next time.  Also try a ratio of 1-1-1, or any ratio you want of BLO, Turpentine and the Minwax Spar you want for a "wet" sanding sealer to pop the grain on some plain wood. 

Then sometimes the finish goes bad, and there are various reasons, the lid was left off for to long and too much of the dryers and thinners evaporated.  You may have opened and closed the can so many times for doing one call at a time that the everything evaporated.   

Marvin

[Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks]

I have used the Minwax and the Cabot spar, and I prefer Minwax, it all depends on what is in stock.  My guess is they are so close to the same "recipe" that most people would not know the difference.  Before you throw it away, take and add a small amount of turpentine and mix it up real good and try it on a scrap piece of wood.  Like I said sometimes "it" happens and just won't work, sometimes it will work the next time.  Also try a ratio of 1-1-1, or any ratio you want of BLO, Turpentine and the Minwax Spar you want for a "wet" sanding sealer to pop the grain on some plain wood. 

Then sometimes the finish goes bad, and there are various reasons, the lid was left off for to long and too much of the dryers and thinners evaporated.  You may have opened and closed the can so many times for doing one call at a time that the everything evaporated.   

Marvin

Thanks Marvin, but I'm dealing with the rattle can stuff.   

[HuntnCarve]

You might be able to salvage the call?  Wipe it with a rag and some paint thinner.  Should remove the spar.  Let it dry for a day or until the thinners flashed out of the wood. Then a light sanding, and recoat with the Cabot. 

[Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks]

You might be able to salvage the call?  Wipe it with a rag and some paint thinner.  Should remove the spar.  Let it dry for a day or until the thinners flashed out of the wood. Then a light sanding, and recoat with the Cabot. 

Thanks.  Too mad at this one to try to save it.  Went down there tonight and it is as sticky as a sticker.  Grrrrr.  Trash can!!!!!!