Author Topic: Reaming #2MT holes.....  (Read 7721 times)

Offline gooseforsupper

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Reaming #2MT holes.....
« on: August 22, 2009, 06:57:51 PM »
Hi gang!

You all have helped me out so much in the past, I wish to share back a good tip.  Reaming the holes out to #2 Morst Taper is really difficult and this will help:


I use Al's cow elk guts and they work just great!  They are tapered Morst Taper #2 so in order to get a really good seat in the call the hole has to be tapered the same.  It drove me nuts looking for the proper reamer to do the job quickly in hard wood.  

Here is the perfect solution and it costs around $130.00.   :2up: :yes:

This company will make one for you.  http://www.gammons.com/reamers.html

They sent me a #2MT Spiral Reamer, I had them sharpen it for me and it kick's butt!
I mount it to the tailstock on my lathe and then work the call by hand on the lathe. Get the hole to the exact size hole so the guts seat very firmly.  It takes a little while on hard woods, but the thing works flawlessly.

I then use plumbers "Goop" to glue the guts in.  Make sure you test the fit of the guts so they can't separate or work loose or they won't sound like an elk for very long.  Occasionally a call will get out of tune because the reed floated off to one side or another so just take a thin piece of wood and nudge it back into place.

I never tried using this reamer other than by hand.  The thing is very agressive and sharp as heck. It scares me to even think about using it in a power tool like a drill press or lathe, it looks dangerous..... :eek:


I know it's an expensive solution to the problem, but the thing works and I only had to sell a few calls to pay for it.   :punk:

RUN ELK RUN!!!!!! :bigup:
Doug

« Last Edit: August 22, 2009, 08:19:57 PM by gooseforsupper »

Offline Braz

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Re: Reaming #2MT holes.....
« Reply #1 on: August 22, 2009, 07:18:52 PM »
I also use a reamer, and have used it by hand. I want to use it in the tailstock, as Marvin suggested, as on the really hard stuff, like dymondwood, it just won't do the job.

Why do you glue the guts in? I thought the idea of the MT was to hold the toneboard in without glue, to facilitate the removal of it for tuning, replacing the reed, etc.
Braz
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Offline VECtor Calls

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Re: Reaming #2MT holes.....
« Reply #2 on: August 22, 2009, 08:07:05 PM »
My understanding of elk hunting, your call better be pretty rugged.  I wouldn't send a call out without it being glued in.  Just no way I'd want it to fall apart when someone is out in the middle of no where.

Parker
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Offline gooseforsupper

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Re: Reaming #2MT holes.....
« Reply #3 on: August 22, 2009, 08:18:16 PM »
Don't have to glue them, but it does seal up any air leaks and hold the guts really well.  I usually can take them apart again by setting the call over a hole in a piece of wood and pounding them out with a rubber hammer and a 5/8 rod.....
Then again I have actually split a call right down the middle trying to take the guts out... :eek:
« Last Edit: August 22, 2009, 10:13:14 PM by gooseforsupper »

Offline Heirloom

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Re: Reaming #2MT holes.....
« Reply #4 on: August 28, 2009, 06:57:27 PM »
I use the Lata meathod for elk and crow calls. Whe I turn the reed holder down, I leave a SMALL taper at the top where when the reeds are set all the way in, it makes for a good seal and holds it tight but not too tight. This lets me get all the reeds from call to call looking the same and helps prevent over zealous hunters from pushing the reed in too far and cracking the barrel.
 I do agree that when using a reamer though, one should use it by hand.
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Offline VECtor Calls

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Re: Reaming #2MT holes.....
« Reply #5 on: February 22, 2011, 01:03:18 AM »
I use the Lata meathod for elk and crow calls. Whe I turn the reed holder down, I leave a SMALL taper at the top where when the reeds are set all the way in, it makes for a good seal and holds it tight but not too tight. This lets me get all the reeds from call to call looking the same and helps prevent over zealous hunters from pushing the reed in too far and cracking the barrel.
 I do agree that when using a reamer though, one should use it by hand.

Heirloom, I used his method today on a set of elk guts, and it sure appeared to me, with the lanyard grooves, that elk guts are just too small/have too wide of a reed for this method?

Parker
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Offline Braz

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Re: Reaming #2MT holes.....
« Reply #6 on: February 22, 2011, 11:29:07 AM »
Don't expect a reply, it's been 5 months since he's been around.  :huh:
Braz
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Offline VECtor Calls

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Re: Reaming #2MT holes.....
« Reply #7 on: February 22, 2011, 01:11:11 PM »
I know.  Feel free for anyone else to reply too.   :innocent:

Parker
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Offline Jon Kennedy Custom Calls

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Re: Reaming #2MT holes.....
« Reply #8 on: February 23, 2011, 08:30:36 PM »
I put o rings on my guts! works great

Offline Monte at Truckee River Turning Co

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Re: Reaming #2MT holes.....
« Reply #9 on: February 26, 2011, 03:12:37 PM »
Hi all, new to the forum!! Was wondering about the glueing discussion?
Out West good elk tags are difficult to get!! seems to me the Latta Method gives the opertunity for the hunter to fine tune his call. If your calling in a 350+ bull you would most likely have done so with multiple calls that you know very well.

P.S. And just wanted to thank you all for this site. :2up: