Step drilling goose barrels!

[Curmudgeon]

Based on the chart as I understand it ( I have done this before and got it right, but ???)

*** NOTE 7/8 bore has a 3/4 shank. You will need a drill chuck that can hold that, or you will need to turn it back down if you have the means.

The 3/4 bore bit with 1/4 pilot bit shank = 368-1048. The 5/8 pilot with a 1/4 shank for this bore bit is 368-3340. This is assuming you have a 5/8 dia bore already as your first taper and will use the 5/8 hole as the guide for a 3/4 bore.

7/8 bore bit with 1/4 pilot shank = 368-1056 (note this has a 3/4 shank)  / 3/4 pilot bit with a 1/4 shank for this bore is 368-3348. This combo will use the 3/4 bore as the guide for a 7/8 bore.

Please double check as this was done using the chart, not my invoice.

368-1048 & 368-3340 for 5/8 pilot to 3/4 taper.
368=1056 & 368-3348 for 3/4 pilot to 7/8 taper.

Hope this helps.

PS. I have drilled a bunch of these and the bores are still extreamly sharp !

Hope this helps

[VECtor Calls]

   Richard, is there any chance you could take a photo or two of the 'set' so I can understand what they look like, and what they do better? 

I do have a person that should be able to turn down that 3/4" shank.

Parker

[Wes]

Those numbers look right to me, that is probably the easiest , most accurate way to go, but maybe mot the cheapest. Another way to do it is use brad point drill bits ,drill your 7/8 hole to proper depth , change to 3/4 bit drill your next step and then finish with a 5/8 . The brad point leaves a small hole to help center the next bit. Forstner bits with the brad point on them will work the same way. This isn't rocket science , it only has to be pretty close, it is all going to be on the inside where it doesn't show anyway. That is how I do mine, but I don't do very many, if I did I would go with the pilot point counter bores.
Wes

[Curmudgeon]

Those numbers look right to me, that is probably the easiest , most accurate way to go, but maybe mot the cheapest. Another way to do it is use brad point drill bits ,drill your 7/8 hole to proper depth , change to 3/4 bit drill your next step and then finish with a 5/8 . The brad point leaves a small hole to help center the next bit. Forstner bits with the brad point on them will work the same way. This isn't rocket science , it only has to be pretty close, it is all going to be on the inside where it doesn't show anyway. That is how I do mine, but I don't do very many, if I did I would go with the pilot point counter bores.
Wes

That works if you are going from largest to smallest, I never even considered that ! 

[VECtor Calls]

That's how I have done mine on the drill pres Wes, and it has not worked for me as well as I would like it to.  The trick is, I'm drilling all the way through, like you said, biggest to smallest, but I'm using a 5/8" mandrel to turn it.  Well.......your 5/8" hole is going to be your least accurate drilling using this method.

I got some Forstners and some Silver Deming bits today that I'm going to be putting to work here in the next couple days on the lathe, with the wood in my 4-jaw chuck.

And I do agree Wes, its not rocket science, but I ain't gonna lie to you either.  I'm a Perfectionist with a capital P.   

Parker

[Heirloom]

Mr P, I would suggest yu drill your 5/8 first to the depth you need it. THEN come in and bore the 7/8. After that, you can drill your 1/2 from either end, but I w3onder f you mounted it on your mandrel, if you wouldn't be better off drilling the 1/2 inch from the exposed end? That would pretty much keep everything centered on the 5/8 bore. just stain brormin' again.

[Braz]

Parker, I've not done this before, so bear with me. I'm assuming you are using that expanding mandrel. So, here is how I would do it. First I would drill a 5/8" hole part way through. Then drill with a 1/4" the rest of the way. This would be using the 4 jaw chuck. Then mount the blank on your expanding mandrel. The 1/4" hole allows you to reach in and secure the blank on the mandrel. I would then drill with the 7/8" and the 3/4" bits. They will be centered on the 5/8" hole this way. You have to do some careful measuring so you don't hit the mandrel with the last drill bit, but that can easily be done.

After drilling, just start turning. The blank is mounted and all is centered. Like I said, I've not done this before, but that is how i would approach it.

[Heirloom]

Braz is SO much better explaining stuff than me....That's what I was trying to say.

[VECtor Calls]

   AH!  I really like that idea Braz!  I wish I didn't have guts to drop in calls tonight and I'd head out there and do some drilling.  I guess I'll have to wait a day or two.

Parker

[Heirloom]

OOOOhhhh Gut Stuffin' night....not bad till it gets to gut TUNING morning....take it from me wait till around 9 or 10 am to start tuning....Otherwise, it'll cause your head to hurt....Well, the wife wll cause your head to hurt....

[VECtor Calls]

   OH MY GOODNESS!  How right you were!  Gut tuning morning was the WORST!  Got it done though, and got a few calls out the door.  Hopefully will have a couple happy customers in the next couple days.

Parker

[VECtor Calls]

   WOW!  I've used both dogcatcher's and Braz's methods in the last 2 days, and they've both turned out great!  They ARE both a lot slower than using the drill press, but they are PERFECT!  Just like I was looking for in this three step drilling process!  I've also used these processes for the two step (one actual "STEP") process I use on my elk calls and they turned out great too!

Thanks to both of you, and everyone else, for the help on this!

Parker

[dogcatcher]

Just the beginning Parker, just the beginning of things you can do with that chuck.

Marvin

[Braz]

Parker, I'm still waiting for some pictures.

[VECtor Calls]

   Braz, I'm bad at getting pictures taken, no question about that.    

Parker