Howler toneboard Question

[Yotehntr]

I have a question for all that make longer barreled howlers (6"+).  I've been working on making a howler toneboard. After trying many.... I really mean many different lengths/slops/reed thickness (and widths) Different air channel thickness's and depths. Different exit hole sizes, folding the reed under (like Al's) elevating the reed before the ramp (like Steve's) I still get a skip. Not with a short barrel mind you. I've had several that sound killer with out a barrel and with a short barrel. Put a longer barrel on and wham! there's a skip. When I run a tooth down it real slow it happens (say at mid point on one of them) so I tried stopping short of that spot and increasing the air flow to continue the accent in pitch. Skips at the same frequency/pitch/note what ever you might want to call it. Thus eliminating the possibility of  it being a flat spot. I thought it sounded like a harmonic because it doesn't really stop but doubles in pitch, so I tried making a shorter ramp with a shorter fatter reed.... yep it breaks at a different pitch... My question is can any of you that make longer barreled howlers consistently make a toneboard that doesn't have a "break" or "skip" in it? I am certain that the coyotes don't care about a skip...but I'm also certain that I haven't sold a single call to a coyote.     Any input/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 

Brad

[alscalls]

I fight the same problem often......a smaller air channel usually helps me but I make em one at a time and by hand so that means start over again
Also have had some success sloping the air channel across the grain a tiny bit on deer antler.
But I can only speculate to the problem you are having......Let me know if this helps.
                                                                                                                   AL

[BigB]

The howlers that I have that are 6"+ in length are either horn howlers or the Red Desert Howler and the Primos Hot Dog.  I have a hard time howling with the Red Desert and the Hot Dog with their small, long barrels.  So I made a shorter barrel that has a larger diameter exhaust, and the Red Desert mouthpiece sounds great in it.  I called in a lot of coyotes with that howler before I got my Cronk buffalo howler.

I haven't made a howler that has a long barrel similar to those two due to ease of use problems that they have.  I have heard lots of folks have issues with those long skinny barrels, so that's why I kind of have shyed away from them.  My guess is that you are running into a backpressure issue on the barrel due to the length of it.  The Red Desert toneboard has just about the largest air channel and exhaust that I have seen of any toneboard, and it has issues with that long barrel.

How long is your howler toneboard?  The longer the toneboard, the easier it is to get consistant howls out of it without those tone breaks.

Brian

[Yotehntr]

The "ramp" section on the longest I've done is 1 3/4".

[BigB]

The ramp on the Red Desert is roughly 1.90" and the Hot Dog is roughly 2.10" in length.

Brian

[Yotehntr]

   Guess what I'll be trying next....   I'll post up when I've given it a couple trys! Thanks Brian

I'll also give a shallower channel a try Al Thanks!

[Yotehntr]

Well after running around like crazy had a few minutes to give it a try.     2" It seemed a little better but not successful.........yet. I'll have to give it another try it didn't have a good ring to it anyway, no volume so some adjusting with what I've got is necessary anyway. I'll keep ya'll updated and any input is very welcome. Input from some duck call makers might  apply just as well. I've been reading how ya'll manipulate your toneboards for sounds too.

[Rock Crusher]

I have had the same problem many times and still don't know for sure what causes it. Usually what I do is keep resanding my toneboard arch and  a lot of times I can get rid of it but I still throw a few across the shop. I think if your arch is to sharp or to flat can make a lot of difference as well. Also try just bending  ninety in your reed and cutting a notch in your toneboard to keep a rubber band in and holding your reed on that way. I used to try to fold them over and stick them in a slot and I could never get that to work very good. I don't know if any of this makes any sense or not but hopefully you can get something useful out of it.

[Yotehntr]

I can see what your saying on this but it kind of does away with my design. I don't use castration bands on my open reeds. I've been so busy this weekend making calls for orders and the usual spring time stuff around the house I haven't had play time with the toneboards. Thanks for the input!!!