Author Topic: Chucks, Mandrels, Drill Bits  (Read 4221 times)

BAdams

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Chucks, Mandrels, Drill Bits
« on: June 26, 2017, 10:23:49 PM »
I am just getting started and am trying to get everything I need.  I am planning to buy a Jet 1015vs lathe.  I have been looking at the Nova G3 chuck that requires an insert and the Nova 48111 which I believe is the same, but it is already threaded and doesn't require an insert.  Is one better than the other for this particular lathe?

Next question is which mandrel type..  I am mainly interested in duck calls and am really unsure about the different types of mandrels and sizes that I would need. 

Drill bits I am guessing can be about any wood bit, but is there a certain collet or something needed when drilling out a tone board or a barrel?

Im sure this has been discussed before so if someone could point me to those posts I would sure appreciate it!

Thanks,

Brett

Offline Truefire

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Re: Chucks, Mandrels, Drill Bits
« Reply #1 on: June 27, 2017, 09:48:19 AM »
I'll get back with you a little later on when I have a spare moment
« Last Edit: June 28, 2017, 03:36:02 AM by Truefire »
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Offline Michael @ RK Custom Calls

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Re: Chucks, Mandrels, Drill Bits
« Reply #2 on: June 27, 2017, 10:32:13 AM »
I'm fairly new to call making as well, but I can share some of the things I've learned on my own and through this site:

I have never used the Nova chucks so I can't speak to them.  I use a Barracuda 4-jaw chuck and have been pleased with it.

I would suggest a straight shank mandrel and a collet chuck.  I use the PSI collet chuck, which seems to be the most popular.  I used to use a tapered mandrel that would fit in the 2MT of my headstock, but I think it turns more true using a collet chuck and straight shank.

I would invest is some higher quality drill bits.  I like using brad points and forstner bits.  You will also want step bits if you plan on doing your own inserts, so you can bore out the exhaust a little bit.

You will need what is called a Jacob's chuck in order to drill on your lathe.  It's essentially a drill chuck with a tapered shank so it will fit in your tailstock. 

There are guys on here that can give you much more detail and advice than I can, but I thought I'd lend some insight to at least get you started.

Good luck and happy turning!
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BAdams

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Re: Chucks, Mandrels, Drill Bits
« Reply #3 on: June 27, 2017, 09:36:55 PM »
What size mandrel would I need for duck call barrels and inserts?  I have seen them 1/2" with 5/8" Shank and 5/8" with 5/8" shank.  I haven't figured this part out yet..

Offline Truefire

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Re: Chucks, Mandrels, Drill Bits
« Reply #4 on: June 28, 2017, 03:20:43 AM »
The Jet 1015 is an awesome choice.  If it's made anywhere close to the quality of the older Jet1014 then you'll have a piece of equipment that will wade through the fire and come forth shining as gold.  They're tough, solid machines.

As far as chucks go, Novas are great too...as it seems you're already aware.  That said, I would most definitely go with a fixed thread.

1x8 tpi threads are really common on most machines of that class and the accessories for these in that thread pitch are readily available. 

Now then, although I own a Nova chuck and really appreciate their brute strength and functionality, if I was going to suggest a chuck I'd say take a hard stare towards the Easy Wood Tools brand 'Easy Chuck'.  No more stripped screws and attempting to locate replacements.  Easy Chuck--jaws off and swapped in less than 10 seconds..tops!

You don't necessarily even need a chuck to make duck calls. 

Mandrels--there are only a few options in that realm.  One would be better striding that road and marching along the beats of making mandrels as opposed to game calls.  There are tons of us making game calls but hardly anyone making mandrels.  The profit margin is just sitting there awaiting like low hanging fruit.  Just a little digging...you'll find. 

The Jet1015 will be fitted with a morse taper (MT2) in the headstock therefore any tapered holding jig / mandrel you buy would need to be a MT2.  Now then, lots of callmakers elect to use the straight shafted mandrels and not tapered, in consolidation with a collect holder.  Much easier removal and quicker dismantle.

Drill bits--you'll need standard twist bits and brad point bits.  Brad points are absolutely essential.  For drilling larger holes in this realm of callmaking--source some 'twin land' bits.  Don't go cheap on bits.  In the department of bits, metallurgically you get what you pay for.  You'll reap huge returns by just spending that extra $10
« Last Edit: June 28, 2017, 03:34:23 AM by Truefire »
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Offline Truefire

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Re: Chucks, Mandrels, Drill Bits
« Reply #5 on: June 28, 2017, 03:46:34 AM »
What size mandrel would I need for duck call barrels and inserts?  I have seen them 1/2" with 5/8" Shank and 5/8" with 5/8" shank.  I haven't figured this part out yet..

 

It depends on whether you are planning on making an arrangement of Louisiana and Arkansas style inserts.  If you are planning on making all one piece Arkansas style inserts then any 1/4" blind mandrel setup will do.  That is, if your tone channel is going to be 1/4" dia.   

As for the bore--a 5/8" mandrel would be nice but it doesn't necessarily even have to be a manufactured one to begin with.  I've made calls on wooden mandrels.  You can make your own various styles of mandrels to begin with, to grasp a feel for the art, before you dive too deep would be my suggestion. 

If you should choose to progress, all of those various sized mandrels will probably end up in your arsenal before too long.  You'd eventually find a use for every size you mentioned.
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Offline BigB

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Re: Chucks, Mandrels, Drill Bits
« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2017, 12:50:01 PM »

This should give you a few pictures of the different chucks and mandrels

http://thogamecallsforums.com/index.php/topic,1215.msg11586.html#msg11586


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Offline Truefire

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Re: Chucks, Mandrels, Drill Bits
« Reply #7 on: July 01, 2017, 11:39:19 PM »
Well daggone BigB-  that's a lot better than me trying to put it in plain text isn't it?   :2up:
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