Author Topic: Sealing  (Read 710 times)

Offline Nick Austin

  • New Forum Member
  • *
  • Posts: 9
Sealing
« on: May 30, 2016, 01:09:19 AM »
After you turn the call what do you guys like to use to seal the call. Also do you seal the inside and the outside of the call.

Offline Ryan@roosagamecalls

  • Custom Call Maker
  • ****
  • Posts: 724
  • Age: 36
  • Location: ohio
Re: Sealing
« Reply #1 on: May 30, 2016, 08:37:39 PM »
There's a vast array of ways to seal a call and it depends on what the material is and what the call is used for. There's different oil finishes and ca finish and a spar finish. My opinion is if your just starting find your self a good oil finish for the material your goin to mostly use and learn to apply it well. It's a good practice to finish the inside of your calls too .

Offline Nick Austin

  • New Forum Member
  • *
  • Posts: 9
Re: Sealing
« Reply #2 on: May 31, 2016, 09:31:35 PM »
If I finish the inside of the call is that going to build the inside up to much to where I will have to reme it out again.

Offline David @ Mad Duck Game Calls

  • Tutorial Contributor
  • Custom Call Maker
  • *
  • Posts: 2675
  • Age: 16
  • Location: Oklahoma city, Oklahoma
Re: Sealing
« Reply #3 on: June 01, 2016, 07:58:05 AM »
Teak oil. It is relatively cheap and you can get it at home depot.
I soak the call in it for about a day, pull it out, wipe it dry, then let it sit for another few days to completely dry.
There shouldnt be any build-up on the inside, as it is a penetrating oil.
David
-------------------------------------------------------
"If you want me to agree with you, I can, but then we'd both be wrong" 
-------------------------------------------------------

Mad Duck Game Calls Facebook Page

Mad Duck Game Calls Website

Offline JCurren

  • Custom Call Maker
  • ****
  • Posts: 324
  • Age: 56
  • Location: Georgetown, TX
Re: Sealing
« Reply #4 on: June 01, 2016, 09:54:51 PM »
Then once you decide you like call making, order a quart of Velvit Oil from the manufacturer in Wisconsin (they are really nice to talk to).  It will cost you $25-$30 to your door, but it is great stuff and goes a long way.  Then if you want more sheen, get a buffing system like that from Beall.  I started with Minwax Wiping Varnish (my normal woodworking finish), went to Tru Oil based on what others were doing, Teak Oil like David recommended, and then Velvit Oil that a lot of folks use. I'm done with experimenting based on how foolproof Velvit Oil is to use and how the wood turns out. No finish can make up for improper sanding. I sand 120-150-220-330-400-600 which seems to work for me, then two coats of Velvit Oil, then buff and wax if I want something other than satin finish.
"We enjoy the process far more than the proceeds."  Warren Buffett

Offline MadTrapper

  • Custom Call Maker
  • ****
  • Posts: 77
  • Location: Minnesota
Re: Sealing
« Reply #5 on: March 22, 2017, 04:06:07 PM »
I originally posted this in the General Call Making Discussion board but it's relevant here:

Interesting stuff here...  I too like a traditional, non-glossy finish on my calls.  I too believe wholeheartedly in 100% pure Tung Oil.  (I've never used Velvet Oil so I don't know anything about it.)  I've not went to nearly the effort that gooseforsupper has but I very much like my finishing recipe.  It's simple and effective and doesn't involve burning nearly as many rags!

I mix 100% pure Tung Oil, (not the diluted or misrepresented garbage sold at the big box stores) along with 100% pure Gum Spirits of Turpentine and McCloskey's Gloss Spar Varnish.  1/3 (equal parts) of each ingredient mixed together in a jar.  Don't worry, the Gloss Spar doesn't produce a gloss finish with this mixture.  I only use McCloskey's Gloss because I've found it to be the best.  Why, I don't know, it just is.  For some reason, again I don't why, Gloss works better than Satin.   

I soak my calls in this for up to a week or so and then pull them out, wipe them off, and hang em for a couple more weeks.  In about 30 days or so the turpentine odor fades away.  The end result is a gorgeous traditional looking, water resistant finish that will last a very long time.   

I use a jar a bit larger than my largest call.  I take a piece of copper wire and bend it into a "V".  The point of the V goes into the call opening and the tips of the V push up against the top of the closed jar lid, effectively keeping the call submerged in the mixture.  The finish lasts a long time in the jar and is used over and over until it needs to be replenished.  Incidentally, it stays mixed and does not separate or settle out like varnish or stain does.

I wish I could take credit for coming up with this recipe but I can't.  I picked it up from someone much more knowledgeable than I am.  It was explained to me that with this recipe the turpentine becomes part of the finish so should not be substituted for Mineral Spirits.  Since Turpentine is made from tree resin, this tends to make sense, at least to me.  That is why using only 100% pure Gum Spirits of Turpentine is necessary.

Very simple and very effective. 
"The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it". - George Bernard Shaw