Finishing calls

[Abe mccarty]

I have read so many post on finishing calls ( most more than once!). I am just starting out and have found spraying the calls is the easiest method for doing small batches. I know that poly won't hold up under harsh conditions but have also found that it is the quickest drying and also looks the best of what I have tried. The spray spars that say dry to the touch in 2 hours have taken multiple days to become non-tacky on domestics while a cheap minwax poly dries in 2 hrs. Not sure if there are any recommendations. On the same note I have turned some exotics (wenge, rosewood, teak.) I have applied 2 coats of wax free shellac sanding sealer and than plan on using a poly. I figure you are only as good as your first coat so   there is no point in using a spar over the shellac since the shellac isn't meant for harsh elements anyways. But I'm not sure if glue (e6000, or the likes) will stuck to the shellac of if I have bare wood if it will stick to the oily wood. There are so many questions and so many answers I feel like I'm losing my mind (my wife is starting to think I am!). Thanks for any help!

[Mann Lock @ Hollow Wing Calls]

Nothing beats Oil Finishes on pot calls in my opinion.

You dont want a shiny something in the woods when turkey calling and most will not hold up to anything like bug spray unless its CA.

Just a good oil soak, pick your poison, Tung, Danish, Velvet, even Tru Oil....   If you are looking for a hunting call, I would stay away from anything that is sprayed on.

Just my 

[Abe mccarty]

I thought about using velvit oil (its made in area).  I wasn't sure if you could use with oily woods and was also worried that if I soaked it that the glue for the soundboard and surface wouldn't stick.

[JCurren]

Rub it down well after soaking and let it dry for at least a day. Shouldn't have any problems with Goop adhering.

[Abe mccarty]

Thanks for the help I'll give it a try!

[FDR]

Watco  "Teak Oil" works real good on both domestic and exotics. Just follow the directions on the can. I usually apply 2 coats minimum.

[Last Strut Calls]

Finishing calls can sometimes be harder than making the actual call itself 

I've tried everything over the years from tru oil, teak oil, poly, spar and several others. What works best for me on my pots and strikers is a few coats of shellac followed up by several coats of spar. Light sand between coats. I've never had an issue with the spar taking more than 24 hours to dry. In my opinion, spar is the most durable finish on a pot call and will leave your customers with a pot call that will last for years.

[Abe mccarty]

A bit of an update. I have found a spar that dries! Just cheap helmsman.  I'm not sure if the other 3 rattle cans had a problem but I tried multiple scrap pieces with each and all took about 5 days to get to the point they aren't tacky. On that note I am going to try some calls with a straight watco teak oil and some with teak oil soak and spar on the outside to give it some extra shine.
  Also I have general finishes bringin me a sample of a turning finish, not sure what it is or how good but I'll keep you updated.  Thanks again for all the help!

[Last Strut Calls]

I like teak oil but if your hand singing your calls, the ink will smear off once it gets wet or with use. I've found that it's key to give a coat or two of shellac sealer, which makes the spar dry much faster in my opinion. Glad the Helmsman rattle cans worked for you. Thats exactly what I use. They can be found almost anywhere and very very durable.

[Abe mccarty]

I actually used a Pitt artist pen that is India ink and it faded a bit were I rubbed hard but it didn't smear.  I had also let the pen dry overnight.