Youll likely have to make a tool rest for it but that shouldnt be hard.
Keep in mind, you may have to have some ingenuity when it comes to fitting things to the spindle... like a collet chuck or MT shank mandrel. Usually the tapers are larger, so yould likely need a sleeve... but most sleeves dont have through holes for draw bars.. and are hardened, so not fun or easy to try and drill through (thought it CAN be done). The scroll chuck will be handy for sure,but remember, self centering scroll chucks are not known for their accuracy... and the cheaper the chuck, the worse you can expect them to be (which you can expect to find on the lower cost import machines). General rule of thumb Ive seen on that is anything under .005" run out is pretty dang good unless its a high dollar 'adjust tru' type chuck. So generically, holding a mandrel in the 3jaw will not be accurate if youre anal about that. Yould be better with making or having made, a MT shank that matches your machines taper socket (guessing youll endup with #3 or maybe #4MT) with a threaded hole for draw bar, and have a 1"8 threaded stub on the end - and use your collet chuck when you want to hold a straight shank mandrel or keg tenon.
Things will be different, but with a metal lathe in terms of initial setup... but once you have employed your ingenuity, youll find there is much more a metal lathe can offer.
One thing you should do... is see the lathe in person... and make your tool post plan right there... you will have less room for your hands because of the cross slide/carriage and hand wheel. So it might be a bit style cramping depending on the specific machine youre looking at.
Wade
