Favorite Pot Call "Anatomy"

[Jim Lemon]

Good Evening everyone, I came onto this site while trying to get some additional info on turning some pot calls. Right now, I'm limited to drilling a 3/8" center hole and chucking it with a bolt and washers. I'm no expert turner, but I have done enough bowls and pens to have a descent idea of what I'm doing. I'd just like to know what I can do to make the call sound best. Number, location, and size of holes?  Size of shelf (or whatever the striking surface sits on)?  Should I leave a "table in the middle" and if so what size, shape, etc? Just give me a rundown on what you do to make your calls sound good.

Thanks,
Jim

[JCurren]

There is a ton of information on this forum.  Do searches, go through the tutorials, search other web pages for information, then feel free to PM me.  I'm no expert, but I've learned so much from researching this forum and then asking a few questions from some of these talented folks. 

[jcz]

Jim, welcome to the site. 

We as a group will bend over backwards to help a new guy. As long as they do their homework. Before diving in head first on the lathe read through the tutorials. Most any question has been answered here more than once. Use the "search" function after reading tutorials and regular posts. I'm not saying you have to read every word posted in the forum. But you have to help yourself before any one else will.

[dogcatcher]

When you are reading take notes, I will also suggest that when you come across the name Prairie Game Calls, pay close attention.  The other name to pay attention to is Vince of Vector Calls.  You will get some of the best info on pot calls that you will ever find on the Internet. 

I will also suggest 2 sets of notes, one a computer link to the info with notes on what is covered, the other a notebook with hand written notes, a loose leaf note book with a few dozen dividers.  Break the dividers down as you see fit.  This is for when you are in the shop and do not have computer access.  Great notes will be your best friend, lousy notes will be your worst enemy.

Almost every question that can be asked has been answered, not once but in some cases dozens of times. 

Marvin

[Jim Lemon]

Thanks for the warm welcome. I've done a little reading and searched around on here. I've found some good info, but most of the pictures are taken after the striking surface has been attached. I can't ssem to find a thread that discusses dimensions. I've read all of the tutorials as well.

At this point, I think I want to make my calls between 15/16" and 7/8" thick. From what I've read, I'll want around a 3/32" shelf for the striking surface to rest on. Does this sound right?

There's still a few things I haven't quite figured out or found good info on yet. One is the diameter of the sound boardd. If sound board isn't the right term, then the "donut" or circular shape left in the middle. If I understood right, there should be about 1/8" of clearence between soundboard and the bottom of the striking surface. My other main unanswered question is how much to leave on the bottom of the call or what length of clearance between bottom of striking surface and inside bottom of the call. If any of you guys know of any good search phrases or thread links, I'd be more than happy to read up a little more.

[VECtor Calls]

The donut in the call body is the pedistal. The sound board, in general, is another material, usually made of a striking surface material, that is a circular disk 1/8" thick and 3" wide. Most folks use glass or slate for this, some aluminum. So, your pedistal will stick up so when the 1/8" sound board is attached to it (with GOOP), it will be that distance from the striking surface.....usually about 1/8".

[Ron Hendrix]

Like the others have said, go to the tutorial section and you will see everything you want to know. The question you have asked shows that you have not been able to find the tutorials yet. Here is the link http://thogamecallsforums.com/index.php?board=110.0

[Jack at Mud Creek Game Calls]

The most helpful info I ever got on pot calls is contained in the linked thread. As already stated pay close attention to what Prairie Game Calls has to say. I read it multiple times because there is so much info it justifies the rereading. After soaking up all that you can from the thread then use the guidelines given and play with 1 thing at a time. Notes on top of notes equals repeatable results. Good luck and I know without a doubt that you can make great sounding pot calls from the info found on this site because I learned this way. Thanks to the selflessness of many on THO I had much more success than error.


http://thogamecallsforums.com/index.php/topic,10127.0.html

[Jim Lemon]

Thank you all. I don't know how I missed that thread on pot call harmonics, but it's really some useful info. I'm going to give it a whirl tomorrow evening.

[dogcatcher]

Once you figure out the nomenclature of the parts of the pot call all of this will start to fall in place.  I have no clue on how to do a drawing for this, I am computer illiterate, maybe someone else can do a mock up drawing of the parts with names.  Back when I started it was top piece, middle piece and the body that they were glued into.  It was about 30 years later that I heard calling surface and sound board.  That was news to me, and sometimes I still use the same names. 

From your last 2 posts, you have done your homework,  now you need to play with sound holes, pedestal heights, diameters and the ledge sizes and the rest of the million an done things that determine what the sound will be when it is all "Gooped" together.  I will also suggest cheap cedar to start with, save your good wood for later.  It really sucks to throw away an expensive piece of wood after finding out you knew less than you thought you did. 

Marvin

[Jim Lemon]

One more question before I set off. Does the type if wood play a major role in harmonics or is it mainly whatever looks vest? I know density plays some role, but what kind of difference does cheap domestic wood make from pricy exotics.

[dogcatcher]

The wood does make a difference, especially with the strikers.  For pots I prefer cedar, cheap easily obtainable everywhere.  I make 2 piece strikers, my dowels come from the suppliers, Brookside etc..  I don't make many pots, not much demand for them in my part of Texas, and cedar covers all the needs I need to cover. 

Marvin

[JCurren]

How does this sketch look Marvin?

[jcz]

^^ need to work on your tool presentation and sanding. 

[aprilheadhunter]

^^ need to work on your tool presentation and sanding.