Author Topic: Oil finish ???  (Read 4451 times)

Offline Waylon at JWT Custom Game Calls

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Oil finish ???
« on: August 06, 2014, 09:03:43 PM »
I been doing a lot of oil finishes on my calls lately. I wet sand with oil to fill grain, then soak it for a bit. My question is, would putting my call in the oil, then putting it in a vacuum chamber and draw a vacuum for and hour or so help the wood soak up the finish better?? Thanks in advance for any help. Waylon.
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Offline Henry H

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Re: Oil finish ???
« Reply #1 on: August 06, 2014, 09:45:22 PM »
Yes, Waylon, and several do that.  I have been meaning to give it a whirl, but haven't gotten around to it largely because I haven't had the need.

The other thing you can do to help is to cut the oil with the appropriate solvent.  For example, I use pure tung oil almost exclusively for oil finishes.  With exception of stabilized wood, which just gets a wipe, an oil finish consists of 4-8 treatments.  The first treatment is 25% pure tung oil, 75% citrus solvent.  This treatment is very thin and gets the most penetration.  The solvent flashes off as the oil dries.  Whether dipped (most common for me) or wiped, the excess is wiped off after 30-45 minutes.  The second treatment is 24 hours later and is 50/50.  Again, wipe excess 30-45 minutes later.  24 hours later, third treatment... 75% oil, 25% solvent.  4th treatment 24 hours later is 100% oil.  Whether it gets further treatments (each 24 hours) depends on how the call looks after 45 minutes or so... if it looks like the wood is still absorbing oil, it will get another... if it looks like none is being absorbed (entire call is still wet), then that is the last coat.  I'll let the last coat dry 6-7 days before buffing and polishing.

To make this simple for dipping, I have four tall, thin olive jars for the four concentrations I use.  As I use each up, I top them off with oil and solvent.  I also use bloxygen everytime I reseal the jars to help preserve the oil for as long as possible.  If care is taken, you can get 4-6 months out of each before you need to dump them and start with fresh oil.

Hope this helps in some way.

Offline Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks

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Re: Oil finish ???
« Reply #2 on: August 07, 2014, 09:16:37 PM »
Oil finishing for me is simple.  Dunk it in Velvet oil and leave it there for a day or more.  Then take it out, wipe it dry and let it dry for a day.  That's it besides buffing in some cases.  And it is an awesome finish.

I have heard of guys using vacuum to draw the oil in deeper and I can see definite benefit to that.  I don't believe it is necessary, but I certainly don't think it is a bad thing to do.  Deeper finish equals better protection.

Offline BigB

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Re: Oil finish ???
« Reply #3 on: August 07, 2014, 10:40:06 PM »


My oil finished calls get submerged in Velvit oil while a vacuum is pulled on the container.

Brian
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Offline dogcatcher

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Re: Oil finish ???
« Reply #4 on: August 08, 2014, 12:22:14 AM »
Most of the oil finishes are not much more than BLO, a varnish and mineral spirits.  Some like Minwax Antique Oil contain 65% or more mineral spirits, while Minwax Teak oil contains more varnish and less mineral spirits.  I can add mineral spirits to Minwax teak oil and get the same as Minwax Antigue Oil and save money.  But over all I prefer Watco Teak Oil, in my opinion it has the optimum BLO, varnish and MS mix, almost the same as Tru-Oil but cheaper. 

As to the vacuum or pressure, tried it, played with it and came to a 50/50 decision, I don't believe the extra penetration is that important, most of the finish instructions say to keep the item wet for about 30 to 40 minutes and wipe dry.  A finish 1/4" inside of the wood will harden that inside wood, but at even an 1/8" the wood doesn't need the protection.   Do I use pressure or vacuum, yes, but it depends on the call and the type of wood.  If a wood floor can handle abuse with only a 45 minute soak then a call should be in great shape.

Henry H, I am curious as to what brand of tung oil you use?   I have only found 2 brands that are 100% and I can't find either locally or in the DFW area.  If I can find one in either place I would use more of it. 

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Offline Henry H

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Re: Oil finish ???
« Reply #5 on: August 08, 2014, 08:41:51 AM »
Marvin, I order my tung oil (and citrus solvent) by the gallon from realmilkpaint.com.  Their website has some great information about tung oil finishes, ad their products are superb, if a little pricey.  A gallon goes a LONG way, though, if stored properly (I use bloxygen every time I open the bottle).  I use the citrus solvent instead of mineral spirits or turpentine as a thinner because it is non-toxic... though it really shouldn't matter because whatever solvent is used should evaporate.  The citrus solvent is also a great grease remover for tools, and I feel better about breathing it when cleaning than I do the others.  Real Milk Paint also offers a dark raw tung oil if staining to a darker color is desired.

I prefer tung oil to linseed oil because I understand it is a better water barrier and it also seems to dry a bit faster... and I've had issues with linseed oil darkening with age that tung oil doesn't seem to have.  I've also seen reference to linseed oil promoting mold growth, thougn I never experienced that.  Tung oil finishes have some flexibility, and I've not seen any finish checking in my calls.

Offline wlain

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Re: Oil finish ???
« Reply #6 on: August 21, 2014, 02:56:52 PM »
I got really good results with information Marvin sent me about oil finishes, Watco teak in particular.  I think I am going to have to give this velvet oil a shot as well.