Mandrels

[M Perrault]

  I just started turning deer grunts.  The first one was a kit that came with the expanding bushing mandrel.  It worked great on the first one.  I just tried to turn the second one today and could hardly get any wood off of the blank on the 1/2 inch mandrel because the bushing was cooked. .

  So my question is what mandrel works the best?  I am not looking to break the bank because I am still getting my feet wet but need something better than what I have any help would be great

Thanks in advance.

Matt

[Jack at Mud Creek Game Calls]

I use an expanding mandrel from flint hills, he used to advertise here but I don't see it now, maybe I'm just overlooking it. A web search should get his contact info, assuming he is still in business. Very high quality tooling and many on here will recommend this mandrel.

I believe webfoot custom calls also sells mandrels, you can find his contact info in the advertisers section here on THO. I've heard very good reviews on this tooling as well.

I also have a few of these mandrels in other sizes and for the money they are tough to beat.  http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=240-3200&PMPXNO=4840009&PARTPG=INLMK3

[M Perrault]

  The expanding mandrels that say they need a draw bar, can you put the in a collet chuck with out huring them?

[David @ Mad Duck Game Calls]

There is an mt taper (mt 2 and mt 1) or a straight or stepped shank, don't get the mt mandrels unless you want to use a draw bar, just get the straight shanked ones.... I got my stuff from webfoot and enco, I would not recommend buying from enco, their set screws strip out really easily.... My webfoot mandrel is still going strong!! 

[M Perrault]

Dave when you  use the morse taper  mandrels you have to iuse the tail stock right?  THe straight ones need the drawbar trough the head stock right?

[VECtor Calls]

Flint Hills, you need to go to his website. Webfoot has a section here.

The collet chuck mandrels are much cheaper than the draw bars.

Some day HUT may get with the program, but for the time being, they are still a pen supply shop taking advantage of the game call making market being on an upswing.

[VECtor Calls]

Dave when you  use the morse taper  mandrels you have to iuse the tail stock right?  THe straight ones need the drawbar trough the head stock right?

A tail stock is not needed for either, but it stablizes your work a lot for the rough out.

The draw bar kind has a MT insert paermanently attached to it. That is why it can't go in a collet chuck.

It all depends on whether you like using a collet chuck or not, and if your lathe accepts their screw-on attachment to your lathe....which about every new one does.

Collet chuck type mandrels are cheaper because there is less hardware and less prep time for the mandrel maker.

I use both. I like the draw bar type because that is what I am used to.

[Rick Howard]

If I were in your position a collet chuck (so long as it fits the lathe) would be first.  It has become an essential piece of hardware for me.  I think many folks would say the same.  If you can't swing a mandrel at the same time.  You can make a pin mandrel pretty easy and inexpensive.  Hop on you tube and look at Carl Jackson's channel.  He has a video about making a pin chuck.  I'm sure if you do a search on here there are some instructions on making a pin mandrel. 

Also you can buy collets for a morse taper.  I believe Packard carries them.

[VECtor Calls]

I would think a collet with a morse taper would have to be backed up with your tailstock for sure?

[Rick Howard]

A drawbar applied pressure to close the collet.  I saw it is a capital Eddie video.

[dogcatcher]

First what lathe do you have?  They are not all equal, some have no Morse Taper, some have MT1 and some have MT 2 or even other combos.  The collet chucks with the MT are not the best choice, sometimes cheaper, but I would save my money for a PSI or Beall Tool collet. 

Another option that will work on any lathe is using what I call a "spindle mandrel".   One is explained here http://thogamecallsforums.com/index.php/topic,12423.msg93869.html#msg93869
If you don't have a tap, you can just turn it between centers, not as accurate on repeats but will work.  For a grunt call you would need one with 3/4" ends and one with a 1/2" ends.  Your cost will be your time and some scrap wood. 

Marvin

[M Perrault]

Dog catcher
  I am using a powermatic lathe.  It takes a mt#2 and I know it has a collet chuck.  I was looking at the step mandrels from webfoot kill two birds with one stone.  Plus the price is right for me right now.  I just don't know if collet chuck will hold the small diameter of that particular mandrel.  I am looking at this one.

http://www.webfootcustomcalls.com/wfcccart/mandrels/stepped_exp/EA583412

[VECtor Calls]

It says 5/8" shank. That means you need a 5/8" collet to hold it. The PSI sets have a 5/8" collet in the set.

[VECtor Calls]

You say "kill two birds with one stone". A step mandrel is not going to expand for you at 1/2" and 3/4".  The 1/2" is where it expands. The 3/4" has to do with you step drilling in your blank at 3/4" and this mandrel will help stabilize that. The 1/2" drilling in the step is where the blank is held on the mandrel by the expansion screw.

I see where it says you are just getting started on deer calls.

Don't mess with these step mandrels at this point.  Get a 1/2" straight mandrel for your stopper, and a 3/4" straight mandrel for your barrel.  If you get your shank size the same (which Webfoot does in 5/8" shank) then you will not have to change out the collet when you change out the mandrel.

[M Perrault]

Guys thanks for all the info.  I am picking your brains with a ton of questions and the fast reply's are great.

Thanks again.