Who all reams the bore?

[Lower Creek Game Calls]

can someone point my in the direction for a #2MT reamer for the crow guts?  I would like to go away from the "O" ring method.  Thanks, John Hood

[jcz]

Thanks for the pic B. I think I was thinking about a boring bar. I DO have one reamer. It is the MT2 reamer but I have never used it. John, I'm pretty sure I got it from McMaster carr.

So now what is the difference in a reamer and a boring bar?

[dogcatcher]

can someone point my in the direction for a #2MT reamer for the crow guts?  I would like to go away from the "O" ring method.  Thanks, John Hood

Here you go. http://www.victornet.com/report/Reamers-Morse-Taper/268.html

Marvin

[Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks]

Thanks for the pic B. I think I was thinking about a boring bar. I DO have one reamer. It is the MT2 reamer but I have never used it. John, I'm pretty sure I got it from McMaster carr.

So now what is the difference in a reamer and a boring bar?

I think a boring bar is a bar with a cutter on the end, or on the side of the end.  In machining applications it performs the same function as a drill bit does, but it isn't size-specific.  Pretty sure they can do narrow or wide holes with the same bar, so it is a factor of how and where it is presented to.  I think.... 

A reamer is size-specific.

[Bob Palmer]

Was hoping you all would talk me out of one  Looks like another tool makes its way to the ever growing list of wants/needs. Thanks for the great discussion all!

[Joe aka COLD @ J. A. Kolter Calls]

How would a 5/8 reamer change a 5/8 bore? I'm not sure I understand the reasoning here. ~Andre'

When wood gets hot from the drilling process, and at the time of drilling it drills a .625" hole. But a couple of days later when the wood cools and comes to rest, it could get to around .622".  And at that size, it won't slide onto a 5/8" mandrel. So, the options are to sand the bore to get it back to size, or to run a reamer through the bore to get it back to a true .625". The sanding method works, but its an estimate and check method. The reamer is fast and repeatable every time.

Brian

Smarty Pants.  Clearly the main reason why the new wave uses this tooling. 

[Joe aka COLD @ J. A. Kolter Calls]

can someone point my in the direction for a #2MT reamer for the crow guts?  I would like to go away from the "O" ring method.  Thanks, John Hood

McMaster-Carr

[duckaddict]

Do yourselfs a huge favor and buy you a reamer they are worth every penny for consistent bore sizing!

What your looking for is a chucking reamer.  They come in straight or spiral flute, and morse taper or straight shank.

[Longntooth]

.  Mine is a chucking reamer

Aaron, where did you get it?

[dogcatcher]

If you are using a reamer to get the perfect bore,, what do you use to get the perfect insert size?  There is no way using a wood lathe to get an exact 5/8" diameter insert every time.  Now my question is why use the reamer to get a perfect bore, if you cannot get an exact insert? 

Now to add another dimension to the questions, when the call is finished the interior bore size is changed by the application of the finish.   Using an oil finish shouldn't change the bore size, but using spar or CA will.   So what is the real purpose of getting the perfect bore size? 

Marvin

[Joe aka COLD @ J. A. Kolter Calls]

If you are using a reamer to get the perfect bore,, what do you use to get the perfect insert size?  There is no way using a wood lathe to get an exact 5/8" diameter insert every time.  Now my question is why use the reamer to get a perfect bore, if you cannot get an exact insert? 

Now to add another dimension to the questions, when the call is finished the interior bore size is changed by the application of the finish.   Using an oil finish shouldn't change the bore size, but using spar or CA will.   So what is the real purpose of getting the perfect bore size? 

Marvin

Somebody's thinking.  Exactly!  This is new wave call maker stuff.  For those that turn on a mandrel they want a full 5/8" bore for fitting.  In my case it doesn't matter if you read my earlier reply.  I custom sand all the interior holes to friction fit my calls.  I also allow for top coat finish and depth measurement for at least 1/4" shrinkage over time.  But I to use reamers when I need them.

[Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks]

Reamers aren't new, so it just seems like a wise application of an old-school tool to gain consistency with less steps.  My reason for using them is because of the aforementioned pinning jig.  Works slick, and there's nothing new wave about pinning bands.  I'm sure we can all agree that sometimes wood shrinks after drilling (actually it usually does to some degree), so opening it back up with a reamer a few days after drilling gets you back to square one.   

I won't get into the insert diameter consistency argument because I completely agree that finishes do change bore and insert dimensions, and I use an o-ring on my inserts anyhow.  My inserts are a given diameter and the fit is adjusted by the depth of the o-ring grooves.  All my toneboards and barrel bores are oiled so I don't have to sweat the finishes' thickness.   

Here's where I got mine: 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#reamers/=oipvz7

And here's the type Brian has that allows him to use a wrench or some other means of turning it. 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#reamers/=oipwba

This is my exhaust bore reamer.  Different sizes for different calls.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#reamers/=oipy6v

[BigB]

If you are using a reamer to get the perfect bore,, what do you use to get the perfect insert size?  There is no way using a wood lathe to get an exact 5/8" diameter insert every time.  Now my question is why use the reamer to get a perfect bore, if you cannot get an exact insert? 

Now to add another dimension to the questions, when the call is finished the interior bore size is changed by the application of the finish.   Using an oil finish shouldn't change the bore size, but using spar or CA will.   So what is the real purpose of getting the perfect bore size? 

Marvin

When I do the toneboard diameters, I use my toneboard jig to test the diameter of it as I am getting it close to size. It has to be a perfect fit inside my jig. If the toneboard is too small in diameter, then when cutting the toneboard, the reed height will be too tall, and that will affect the way the call runs. So, getting perfect bore sizes is critical, as is getting perfect size insert toneboard diameters.

Brian

[duckaddict]

Getting the closest to the specs a call maker decides is a good toneboard means the difference between a good call aaaverage call and one you should prolly throw in the trash can it doesnt take much to go from awesome to trash when u get a toneboard to the point of doing all cadences and sounds easily with the right tone.

[Joe aka COLD @ J. A. Kolter Calls]

Just hav'in fun with calling the younger folks new wave and talking ole school.  The reality is that I am still in school and learning new things all the time.  I also find myself converting to many new wave ideas.
My new Limited model M2 I uses an o-ring fit.  Who would have thunk that?  John is so correct that you need accuracy and consistency turning out the tone boards so you can tune them to be worth anything.  The use of reamers can only improve one's accuracy, so what's a little more tooling costs.  Heck, all ya gotta do is sell a call, take that money and buy one reamer.  Besides McMaster-Carr you can find high quality reamers at Atlas.