Author Topic: getting started, and have a few questions  (Read 5486 times)

Offline Joel Thompson

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getting started, and have a few questions
« on: March 11, 2013, 08:21:16 PM »
So I've spent a while looking over this area of the forum and wanted to ask a few questions to make sure I understand this before I get started and screw something up.   :wacko:

As far as the wood portion goes: I'm going for a 1/2" bore with a tenon to fit the bellows to. I have the short kit for THO. Looking at one of them, it looks like my tenon in this case will only be about 3/8" with a little relief for the "o-ring" in the bellows to fit into.  I read some where that 2.75-3.00" for the total length? Is that set in stone? Will longer or shorter effect the tone or volume?

As far as the reed goes:  I know I need to blade it, but: should I blade it all the way back to where it joins or is fixed to the metal ferrule? And just a straight bend, not curved (if that's even possible) to approximately 15 degrees or so (or what sounds right).

Thank you in advance for any help or opinions you have to offer.  I've seen some beautiful squirrel calls here. 

Offline HuntnCarve

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Re: getting started, and have a few questions
« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2013, 09:48:55 PM »
I like to use about a 3/4" long tenon, but I dovetail the shape of it.  The wider end of the dovetail goes up into the bellow.  I also cut a corresponding groove in the dovetailed tenon to match the rubber ring inside the bellow.
I also use a JC Products tapered metal sleeve to hold the reed.  This requires boring a 9/32" hole into the dovetailed tenon.  The sleeve is 1" long, so I design the call to allow enough wood to surround the sleeve.  I usually recess the sleeve roughly 1/4" down below the end of the tenon.  So that means that 1-1/4" of length is needed for the sleeve to fit into.  Then I have the bore of the call start at the end of the sleeve.  The bore length can vary, along with it's diameter.  So I try and keep the overall lenth compact.  To my ear, this gives a sharper sounding "bark"...
As for blading the reed.  Just slide a razor blade carefully between the blades to the very back of the blades.  Then ever so gently, lift up a tiny, tiny bit.  You just want a little bit of separation between the blades.  Sometimes I'll just flick the blades repeatedly (but carefully) with my thumb, until they open up alittle and ignore using a razor blade.  Regardless how you do it, I like to insert the reed and test the call.  Rap on the bellow with the palm of your hand.  See what it sounds like?  Sometimes it takes alittle tweaking till it sounds squirrel like..Just remember to be careful with the reeds, and work in small increments.  Have a couple extra reeds available, because you will go too far.  We've all done it.  Just part of learning.
On a test call, you can start off with a longer barrel, try it, then start trimming the barrel down in length till you reach the sound you feel you are after?  A squirrel does not have a big voice box.  So be realistic and save yourself some time when you start designing your call.   And like Marvin always says: "Keep notes!"  Ex. overall length of call, bore diameter, tenon length, type of wood, etc...
Hope this helps.

HuntnCarve
Dave
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Offline Joel Thompson

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Re: getting started, and have a few questions
« Reply #2 on: March 12, 2013, 11:19:43 AM »
Thanks Dave, that helps a little.  I plan to use the bushing that came with the kit, but I will look into the metal sleeve. I'm guessing you must use a 4-jaw chuck to turn your calls? I haven't invested in one yet and I have a 1/2" mandrel, collet chuck or between centers. I'll keep good notes on what ever I do. It's great advice and it has served me well with my duck calls. 

Offline HuntnCarve

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Re: getting started, and have a few questions
« Reply #3 on: March 12, 2013, 02:29:20 PM »
You don't need fancy chucks and mandrels to turn a call.  Yes, I have all them, but simple wooden plugs are fine, along with turning between centers.  If you use your 1/2" collet chuck you can turn the body, then go back with a step drill to open the bore up if so desired...Or turn the body between centers, then go back and bore it out on a drill press.  There's a lot of ways to achieve the same end result. :beer:

HuntnCarve
Dave
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Offline dogcatcher

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Re: getting started, and have a few questions
« Reply #4 on: March 12, 2013, 03:06:24 PM »
Like Dave said, you do not need all of the fancy equipment.  Yes it makes it easier, but you do not need everything to start turning calls. 

The best thing you can do is learn how to use your lathe, and I don't mean just turning something round.  Read some books about woodturning.  I think these 2 would be a good start.
Woodturning: A Foundation Course, by Keith Rowley.   
Tauntons Complete Illustrated Guide To Turning by Richard Raffan

Get a load of cheap blank material, maple is a godd wood to learn with, 1.5 square blanks are reasonable from Bell Forest Products.  Practice, then practice some more.  And some more, practice sharpening your tools, and practice some more.  Go to some of the woodturning forums and read about the turning experience.  Learn to recognize the big name turners and then go to You Tube and watch some of their videos.  The more you know about your tools and how to use them the easier callmaking will be.

Now preaching, there are 2 things about woodturning you NEED to know.  One is NEED and the other is WANT, learn to distinguish between the 2, NEED is you have to have it to continue, a drill bit is a NEED, a 2 step modified drill bit that costs $100 is a WANT, you can do the job with out the $100 bit, but you have to have the basic drill bit.  The more money you spend on WANTs the less money you will have to spend on NEEDs.  If you know your tools, know the task at hand, then you will be able to know what you NEED.  You may want a $8000 VB36 Lathe, but you don't need it, but if you don't know the tools how will you know if you NEED it or WANT it.

Marvin
Combat Infantryman, the ultimate hunter where the prey shoots back.
Old style calls for today's outdoorsman
"Call and they will come."
Helping those that are helping themselves.

Offline Joel Thompson

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Re: getting started, and have a few questions
« Reply #5 on: March 12, 2013, 09:59:36 PM »
First of all, thanks to both of you for your advice here.  :beer:

Respectfully it seems like we are getting further and further away from my questions though. I really wasn't too worried about having extra equipment as much as I was suggesting that Dave's method was a little more complicated than I was interested in. I was most concerned with how barrel length really effects the sound of the call, and how much and where to bend the reed.  :innocent:  I went for it earlier this afternoon, and it really wasn't too hard. I'll try to remember to post a pic later when the oil dries. 

Offline Joel Thompson

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Re: getting started, and have a few questions
« Reply #6 on: March 13, 2013, 06:19:26 PM »
So here it is for those of you with similar questions about attaching the bellows.   Dave, I used your dove tail idea with success. 




The barrel is straight bored with a 1/2" drill on my drill press and turned on my pen mandrel.  I used a dowel turned to a point and wrapped in sand paper to open the "voice" end. (Hard to call it exhaust since the bellows sucks to make the sound.) I was able to "Blade" the reed fairly easily, but I'm not sure if it is deep enough.  It does, however, get the attention of the squirrels in my yard, so it must be close. 
We'll see how close when I pop the first one with my 22 this weekend.  :hunter1:


Offline HuntnCarve

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Re: getting started, and have a few questions
« Reply #7 on: March 13, 2013, 08:44:17 PM »
There you go!  Looks like it passed the "yard squirrel" test too. :2up:
I set my squirrel calls up so the bellow is forcing air into the reed.  Did you mention that you have your bellow sucking air?  Hey, whatever works.

HuntnCarve
Dave
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Offline Joel Thompson

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Re: getting started, and have a few questions
« Reply #8 on: March 13, 2013, 10:00:15 PM »
It's not glued in yet, but it seems to sound better pointing away from the bellows so the bellows pulls air across it.  I'll try it again the other way after the second coat of oil dries.