couple questions

[wolfman26]

Hey guys, once agin i am another new member and new to duck call turning.  I researched ALOT before taking up this great hobby, so I wasn't completly in the dark.  It has been an interesting 3 weeks since I got started as well as some very late nights. Not that I have ever done drugs but turning is like crack I just cant get enough.  I have been having some problems when I have been finishing my cocobola, I use a mimwax poly and it doesnt want to take the finish.  It never dries and leaves a sticky residue.  I figured that it may be due to a high oil content in the wood or something.  Another question I have is that, I have made a homemade jig that I use with a scrol saw.  I cant get a proper cut and it is different every time, especialy with the air channel I drill through it.  Is there a method that you guys use to get consistancy.   Thanks a bunch!

[nebo]

I have never tried acatone, but several here use it on oily woods before applyin finish. I just use tung oil then wax.
How are you drilling your tone channel? on the lathe or in a drill press?


Do not get discuraged at just 3 weeks into this. It all takes time, and the best way to learn is by doing. But the great thing about this site is people here will help you along the way.


Good luck
Neel

[Curmudgeon]

Welcome to the obsession!
Cocobolo has a lot of oil in it. You're right, that's causing your problem.
Some folks hit it with acetone first and say that works. I question how long that will last and so I don't do it. I have taken to just buffing and waxing Coco. I think also some folks use laquer ? Not sure.

As for the toneboard, you have run right up to the single biggest hurdle in duck call making. Most folks use a hardened steel jig. You can cut close to, or right up to the jig, and also file it while it's in the jig. Depth of tone channel is also a bit tricky and there must be 100 different ways call makers have come up with to get a handle on it. I index the depth of the channel off of the very end of the toneboard, always line up the end of the toneboard to the end of the jig and never cut off any wood from that end. After the toneboard has been turned, I measure the entire thing, subtract .5, and set up a drill with a collar to exactly that length. 4 inch stopper = 3.5 tone channel. That gets me very close. If I want to extend the tone channel, I can put it right back into the jig, slide it down a bit, and recut it. No re-drilling needed. I can do this because I give myself .25 of extra length before the shoulder so I can make a second cut if needed. This is not really extending the tone channel, it's moving the radius up the board. Just my way of doing it. I could never re-drill a toneboard after it was cut that looked right.

Good luck !

[nebo]

When I need to extend my tonechannel I use a dremmel tool. It works ok for now, but Hopefully when I get my new jig (if the guy ever gets through with it) I will have my drill depth marked on it. I still have a long ways to go. Any who, Wolfman you will get plenty of info from here.


Neel

[Bob from Eames Custom Calls]

Welcome to the addiction....

 "My name is Bob, and I'm a call turner....." ;D

 Concerning the Cocobolo, I have gone to a friction finish on Coco that seems to hold up fairly well. It's called crystal coat, and you can find it at many different woodworking stores. I've never used laquer on Coco, but I know it works for some people.

 I'd buy a hardened jig for your toneboards. Without the ability to file to the jig, your calls will be inconsistent, and duplication of any sound will be very difficult. I started with a public jig from Webfoot, and had one built to my specs after I found what I was looking for in an insert. Tone channel length is one of those things you have to burn alot of wood to figure out. Take an old insert from one of your calls and measure where the tone channel hits on the radius of the toneboard. That should give you a pretty good idea of where to start. Then lengthen your tonechannel until you get the sound and response you are looking for. Be sure to take notes as you go, and once you figure it out, build a jig so you can hit the sweet spot with every call. Best of luck.

 Bob

[Al_at_THO Game Calls]

Welcome to our site! 

I take a different approach on cocobolo.   Actually, two different aproaches.

Depending on what the ultimate end use of the call is going to be - a shelf sitter or a field call makes the difference.  Sometimes.

Anyway, for field calls I normally just sand the call, apply some teak oil, and then once that is dry, buff it and wax it really well.   The new owner of the call can maintain the call for life by simply applying a little good furniture polish and then some wax to the call.   The natural oils in cocobolo will help keep the call water resistant and over time, the oils from your hands will seep into the wood also and give it a very nice patina.

The other way is to use a CA Glue finish on the call.  There is a tutorial on Filling Grain and Finishing Calls with CA Glue in the tutorial section of the main web site that might be worth checking out.   www.thogamecalls.com and then click on tutorials.  It is on the left side of the first page.

CA is a nice finish, very hard and long lasting, but on a field call, it can get scratched like any sit on top finish, poly, lacquer or whatever.   But if you follow the tutorial you will get a great smooth finish with the CA glue that will last a long time on a shelf.

Can't help you with the jig and tone board questions because I make predator calls LOL - but you have some of the finest call makers in the world right here that will bend over backwards to help a new guy.

Once again, welcome to our Custom Call Makers Community! 

AL @ THO

[Braz]

Welcome wolfman26. Glad you found us. I don't have anything to add that hasn't been said already, other than you will find a lot of information in the archives, as a lot of issues have already been discussed. I am not discouraging you from asking questions, just letting you know that you may find other answers, othen than given here, by reading the archives.

As Al said we got some of the best turners around on this site and all are willing to help a guy, or gal, out. That is the whole purpose of this site. It is a great place, with lots of friendly people, lots of advise, most of it good,  ;D and lots of fun. And there are several other sites to take advantage of too. There is the main site, that Al mentioned. There is the hunting site for all those hunting and fishing stories that you have. http://thogamecalls.com/huntingforums/index.php  And there is the Custom Call Sales site that will be up and running in a few days. Watch for an announcement on here.

Again, welcome, and we are glad you found us.

[GN-1]

You have had some good answers to your questions so far, so I will not re-state the things these guys talked about. I do however have a jig I would part with if you are interested. This jig makes a good "timber" call with a lot of nasty low end duck. I can not get it to ring on the top so I am having another one made off of one of my old calls that did well at Reelfoot. If you want the jig let me know, I will throw in a study board to boot. Shawn

[Bill]

I know nothing about the toneboard jig

The way I finish Cocobola is when I am done sanding I will take a Viva Paper towel and soak it wet with rubbing alcohol,and while the call is spinning will wipe the call down and make sure it is wet.Let the call spin dry.once it is completly dry then 3 coats of friction polish then buff.

Bill

[dogcatcher]

It is best to do as suggested and get yourself a public jig.  Either the public or flat jig from Webfoot or a used one from someone that has upgraded to a custom jig.

Drilling the tone channel, I do my drilling before I turn the insert and then use a blind mandrel to turn the insert.  If you do like Curmudgeon said and give yourself the .25" to play with you will save a few headaches.  That is not to say you will not have a headache, you will just have fewer from trying to lengthen the channel.

Marvin

[Jeff @ Mutt Calls]

Only thing that I put on Cocobolo is Mink Oil.  Coco is so nice in it's natural state after turning, It's hard to beat the beauty.  I place a liberal amount of Mink Oil on the piece and handle as much as I can.  As it releases it own oil, it smooths and darkens the wood for a natural luster.

Just what I do... I'm not an expert though. 

Mutt~

[Curmudgeon]

You have had some good answers to your questions so far, so I will not re-state the things these guys talked about. I do however have a jig I would part with if you are interested. This jig makes a good "timber" call with a lot of nasty low end duck. I can not get it to ring on the top so I am having another one made off of one of my old calls that did well at Reelfoot. If you want the jig let me know, I will throw in a study board to boot. Shawn

I'm calling second dibs on his jig !

[GN-1]

I priced it to him Richard. If he does not take it I will give you a shout. Shawn

[Creekside Custom Calls]

Welcome to the site and the new addiction  ;D. I also use alot of the same methods my friends here use.Tone boards cut to 4" and drill the tone channel to 3.5.And I also use a dremel to do any adding length to the tone channel,just incase I need to to get that perfect sound I am looking for  ;D.As far as the coco,I wax and buff.Never tried the acetone but learned the hard way when I first started out making calls that you gotta do something else to those oily woods to get them to take a shine.I think the first one I did(about 8 years ago) that I applied poly to (I know,I know  :-[ ) is still catching flies and stuff in the shop cause it never dried.But you live and learn  ;D.Also,definately get yourself a hardened jig.Will save you ALOT of headache,trust me.
 Oh yeah,don't be afraid to ask questions here.There are a bunch of super great people on here that are more than willing to help ;) ;D. Have fun !!!!!

 Timber