Turkey pot finish

[Dave @ Hagermans Custom Calls]

New to making pot calls, when you finish them, (I'm using tru-oil) are you finishing the inside also and how does it effect the calls sound if you do.

Thanks

[Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks]

It is an absolute must to finish the inside of the call just like you finish the outside.  It doesn't have to be pretty, but you need to seal the wood.  I've never noticed that it does anything to the sound, but I always finish the inside of my calls.  Without sealing that wood completely, it is a customer return waiting to happen.

[VECtor Calls]

absolute must

Those are the exact terms I was going to use.

Parker

[Dave @ Hagermans Custom Calls]

Thanks

[VECtor Calls]

After reading what KC wrote, I've got to expand a little.  Your call will draw moisture to the inside of it through the sound holes in the early morning if you do not finish it.  Your call will then deaden until the humidity is gone again. 

This same thing happens with wood strikers, but there's no solution.  It happens to more of a degree with softer woods.  When a customer points this out to you, get them set up with an acrilic, or a harder wood striker.......or......just use a hard wood or acrylic as your base striker to begin with. 

Parker

[Brad Robinson]

I have been using regular boiled linseed oil buffing out with 4 ought steel wool between coats and then polishing with orange oil and bees wax mixed  with carranuba. is there much of a difference with true oil?
Is there a better finish? I know some of you guys use sanding sealer before applying a hard type finish.

[Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks]

I have been using regular boiled linseed oil buffing out with 4 ought steel wool between coats and then polishing with orange oil and bees wax mixed  with carranuba. is there much of a difference with true oil?
Is there a better finish? I know some of you guys use sanding sealer before applying a hard type finish.

Yes, a significant difference in my opinion.  And I believe there are a number of commonly used finishes that are better than BLO and wax.  Honestly, I think just about anything is a better finish than that.     Tru-Oil is a mix of oils, but it is a polymerizing finish, like polyurethane is.  BLO is not a polymerizing finish, it is just an oil, so buffing it with steel wool doesn't do much for you other than smooth any slightly raised grain out. 

I'm not a believer in using wax as a finish for calls that will be used in the field.  It can't be argued that BLO is going to provide some level of protection for the wood, but the wax is not permanent and will dull with use and handling.  If the call is being soaked in BLO and not just having it wiped on, that's a pretty solid means of protection for woods that'll soak it up.  Customers cannot be relied upon to re-wax a call the way they should. 

If you like the BLO look, try tung oil.  Pretty darn good finish and you can wax over it when you're done.

[Birddog13]

Just found this thread. New to using Tru-Oil as a finish. So would 4-6 coats of Tru-Oil be good? Is buffing a must or can you just run with the 4-6 coats?

[Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks]

Just found this thread. New to using Tru-Oil as a finish. So would 4-6 coats of Tru-Oil be good? Is buffing a must or can you just run with the 4-6 coats?

Number of coats depends on the porosity and density of the wood.  For cedar I've found that the first two coats almost always soak in, so it takes more coats to build a finish and five or six coats are needed.  For hard/dense woods like osage you can get away with three coats most of the time.  On average, four coats???

I see no benefit at all to buffing Tru Oil.  If each coat is buffed with 0000 steel wool after drying, the final coat should end up being glass smooth.

[Jason at JTCCalls,]

KC, what would you suggest for say exotic, more oily types woods, such as Coco?

I have heard people say they needs to use BLO or something else due to the oil keeping tru from adhering.

Jason

[Troy of Run -N- Gun Game Calls]

KC
You using wipe on Tru-oil or aerosol.

[Birddog13]

Thanks for the reply KC.

[Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks]

KC, what would you suggest for say exotic, more oily types woods, such as Coco?

I have heard people say they needs to use BLO or something else due to the oil keeping tru from adhering.

Jason

I just started messing around with tung oil, as suggested by Prairie Game Calls.  I'm wiping it with acetone first and have had no trouble thus far.  Otherwise, a couple coats of dewaxed shellac followed up by spar urethane.

[Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks]

KC
You using wipe on Tru-oil or aerosol.

Wipe on.

[Troy of Run -N- Gun Game Calls]

Thanks