Author Topic: Bite Piece Seating Depth  (Read 3917 times)

Austy

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Bite Piece Seating Depth
« on: January 26, 2012, 11:19:29 AM »
I'm new on here so bare with me I have some questions that I am sure have probably been asked and answered many times over!!!  So what is the proper seating depth for one of the bite type Elk Cow call mouth pieces as many of the post on here show??  Should the MT2 portion of the base of the mouth piece be seated just so that the top radius is exposed, an 1/8" is exposed or how much??  Does it make a difference??  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks 

Offline VECtor Calls

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Re: Bite Piece Seating Depth
« Reply #1 on: January 26, 2012, 11:31:08 AM »
It should be flush.  But, with it being flush, it also need to be tight. 

When some of it is exposed, I can't help but wonder if the guts are properly tightened in the call.

Parker
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Austy

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Re: Bite Piece Seating Depth
« Reply #2 on: January 26, 2012, 01:20:51 PM »
Thanks for the answer, that's what I thought it should be.  When you say tight, How tight should it be??  I know you don't want it falling out when your hunting and the MT2 should for the most part take care of that but how hard should it be to take the mouth piece out if you need to??
Another question maybe you can give me your opinion on.  Does the barrel end of the call need to be flared out like a bell or can it just be a straight cut, Just wondering does it really make a difference?? 
Also while I'm at it I may as well ask while the test call that I just turned out of a piece of pine dries.  I made the call out of pine with a baffled end.  I first drilled a 13/32" hole all the way Thurough the call blank, followed by a 5/8" drill to 2.5" deep so that I could use my MT2 Reamer to get a good tight fit of the mouth piece, flush with the top of the call.  By doing this I left an internal baffle inside the barrel of the call which is about 1/4" or maybe just a little thicker to see how it sounds.   I did this with the hopes that maybe I can tone down the raspyness of the reed at the end of the mew to maybe give it a more nasally sound as each of the calls that I made so far using the bite type mouth pieces from on here to me just seem to be too raspy at the end of the mew.  Maybe its just my calling but my brother seems to think the same way I do on the end of the call.  Any opinions on this, I'm open to suggestions.  I was thinking about trying a thinner reed, maybe 7.5mil??

Offline Jon Kennedy Custom Calls

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Re: Bite Piece Seating Depth
« Reply #3 on: January 26, 2012, 05:59:05 PM »
I take and turn the 2mt taper off the insert, and it will go into a 5/8 bore! i have also put o-ring groves in the insert to keep it in place, I usally place the turned down insert in the barrel 3/4 of the length that i turned down in the barrel, I turn all my inserts down to remove the taper and it works very well and they stay nice and tight.

Jon

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Re: Bite Piece Seating Depth
« Reply #4 on: January 26, 2012, 08:01:08 PM »
Jon's way is the easiest way.

To make a good, smooth, CONSISTENT cow out of these setups, you need to either use shrink tubing or medical/rubber tubing.  I prefer the rubber tubing.  It makes a TON of difference in how easy the call is to run, and its one more thing that keeps the guts consistently tight.

If you are using a MT2 drill bit, then that'll work to keep things tight. 

I tend to use athletic tape and glue to keep all of my stuff tight.....the glue goes through the athletic tape, so it is actually just a consistent pressure for the guts until the glue dries in place.  This is with using a 43/64 drill bit, because 5/8 takes to long to mess around with fitting correctly. 

I suppose the two RIGHT ways to do it are to turn the guts down and use o-rings, or use a MT2 drill bit. 

Here's the tutorial on turning the guts down.  Its not as easy with these type of guts as it is with crow guts, but it will still work very well.  http://thogamecallsforums.com/index.php/topic,12218.msg92333.html#msg92333

One more thing......putting these type of guts in and not securing them with either an o-ring or glue is just asking for an unhappy customer to have their guts fall out in the mountains. 

Parker
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