THO Game Calls Forums
The Art of Handcrafting Custom Game Calls => General Call Making Discussions => Topic started by: BigB on October 17, 2009, 04:25:12 PM
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Here's how I dip my call barrels when I dip them in a finish.
I first start off with this style of paper clip. The medium size ones and large size work pretty good. You don't have to modify the clips in any way. Just squeeze them a little to get them unhooked from the base part of the clip.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2442/4010618540_2a3ece63cc.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2651/4010618680_7f90e7f651.jpg)
When the call barrel is ready to be finished, insert the paper clip into the barrel and take the lid off of the finish you are dipping the call in.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/dipping%20in%20a%20finish/P1020866.jpg)
Slowly lower the call into the finish. I try to lower mine fairly slowly into the finish and at an angle.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/dipping%20in%20a%20finish/P1020867.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/dipping%20in%20a%20finish/P1020868.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/dipping%20in%20a%20finish/P1020869.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/dipping%20in%20a%20finish/P1020870.jpg)
Once the call is submerged, I try to hold it in the finish for a couple minutes just to make sure that all of the air bubbles leave the surface of the call. You can wiggle the call a little to help the process, but don't stir up the finish too much and splash it all over the place.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/dipping%20in%20a%20finish/P1020871.jpg)
Removing the call from the finish is the most critical part of the step. I pull my call barrels out at an angle. I also pull my barrels out of the finish at a rate of around an inch per minute. Pulling them out slowly and at an angle will allow the finish to get an even coat. Pulling it out too fast will result in areas that have a thicker finish and more drips.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/dipping%20in%20a%20finish/P1020872.jpg)
Remember to go slowly. You will want to see what it looks like, but have patience.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/dipping%20in%20a%20finish/P1020873.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/dipping%20in%20a%20finish/P1020874.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/dipping%20in%20a%20finish/P1020876.jpg)
Hold the call for a little bit to allow most of the drips to drip off.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/dipping%20in%20a%20finish/P1020879.jpg)
Hang the call up to dry. I hang the call at an angle. It allows the drips to collect in one part of the call.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/dipping%20in%20a%20finish/P1020880.jpg)
Set a timer for 30 minutes.
(http://www.kitchencontraptions.com/archives/pictures/8473-thumb.jpg)
When the timer goes off after 30 minutes, touch a rag to the drip to remove the drip from the call.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/dipping%20in%20a%20finish/P1020881.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/dipping%20in%20a%20finish/P1020882.jpg)
That's how I do it.
Brian
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Thanks B, I had not thought that taking the call out too fast would cause problems but I can see where it would now that you have pointed it out. How many times do you usually dip your calls?
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:up1: Good stuff B. I just make my wires. I like your style. :rockon:
Parker
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How many times do you usually dip your calls?
It all depends on a few things. Sometimes for the first dip, I will dip in a thinned mixture to try to penetrate the wood surface better. Then for the 2nd coat, I'll dip it in the unthinned finish. It will all depend upon how the call looks after it dries. If it looks like it could use another coat, then put on another coat. Generally, 2-3 dips is what you will find does the trick.
Parker, if you see in the back of my drying cabinet in the last few pics, there are some wires. They were leaving areas in the bore that I didn't like, so I switched to the paper clips. Here is what the bore looked like with the wire design that I was using.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/P1010509.jpg)
Brian
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Thanks, I may have to give dipping another try. I didnt like my results on the few calls I tried it on. I have the spray Im trying now and am having mixed results.
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:up1: Good stuff man. I've had that issue in the past too when the wires weren't bent enough. Its good to show that too to where other folks won't have to mess with that problem.
The way I do mine, I do a dip of.....what.....Bullseye something or other as a pre-finish, and then I do a dip of spar. Once that dip is dried, I come back with a spray can of spar for a coat. That gets me a really smooth finish most of the time.
NOW......with that being said though, I don't think, no matter how hard I tried, would I be able to get a finish to be as smooth as a call BigB did that he would call marginal. :up1: BigB's calls have the best finish on them in a call I have ever held, so when he talks about finishes, I listen! :up1:
Parker
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Good post BigB, I like your idea with the paper clips, I've used bent hanger wire and it does cause some problems. What kind of drying cabinet you got set up?
Al
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Have any of you ever tried the salad bowl finish?? I got some the other day and used B's method of dipping and wow they look awesome!!! 3 coats and it looks like glass but I dont know how it will hold up.
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What kind of drying cabinet you got set up?
Al, here is my cabinet for dipping and drying. It works pretty good.
http://thogamecallsforums.com/index.php/topic,427.0.html
Brian
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:eek: WOW look at that SHINE I think Im going to try this dipping thing.
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I tried my first dip in spar cut 50% mineral spirits on a piece of curtis wood tonight and will do a 2nd dip in uncut spar later. Now for my question, how do you do the inserts? Do you drill them 1st or dip then drill? ::)
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I have drilled and cut my inserts....... then you have to sand some of the finish off of the board. I AM NOT an expert at this. I have only done a handfull of calls this way. So hope some one with WAY more experience than me speaks up.
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I've been dipping the bell end of my inserts all the way up to the cork notch. The remainder of the insert is getting BLO or tung oil applied before the reed and cork go in. I'm careful to make sure to coat everywhere, especially inside the tone channel. It has been working really well for me thus far and I can avoid having to sand the finish off the toneboard.
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THANK YOU for the pics and tutorial BigB. I have to agree with the other guys here that your finish is top notch. The removing slow thing is priceless.
Now for the question part.
First, are you guys leaving the inside of the barrels finished (5/8 hole)? If so is there not and issue when you insert your keg due to the reduced ID from the finish? I normaly coat the barrel ID with mylands friction polish and go with that.
Second, I see you don`t cover your bands when dipping. I have been using electrical tape to cover mine and then remove it once the finish is dry. Are you haveing any issues with coating your bands?
Again, I really appreciate the info brother!!!! Good stuff right there
STUMP
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Stump, I'm leaving the inside of my barrels finished with spar. They fit fine, but I do have to say that the finish on the insert does get a little ugly where the connection is made. You can't see it with the call assembled though. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to sand the spar down a bit on the inside of the barrel???
I'm dipping with my bands installed and unprotected. Removing the call from the dip at an angle and very slowly helps give a uniform finish on the band. If the spar isn't thinned I'm sure it would be a nightmare. I thin mine at about 60% spar and 40% mineral spirits and it is working well. It does help to use the corner of a folded paper towel to catch a couple drips from the barrel and then use the same corner of the towel to remove any excess from the band while it is still very wet.
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I dipped a few in the salad bowl finish I got a couple weeks ago and they look awesome. Im a little worried on how the salad bowl finish will hold to the abuse but I wanted to give it a shot. If anyone has any experience with it let me know please. I figured it was good for bowls that have food(hot and cold) then should stand put to the washing so I hope it holds up good. I also dipped with the bands uncovered and they turned out great!!!
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Thanks for the info. I let you know how mine turn out. Going to use the mylands for the ID of the barrel and then sleeve it for dipping. On the inserts I`m going to dip to the o-ring groove and tung oil the rest.
And I want to try the epoxy finish as well
Great stuff bo and again thanks for sharing. You guys have helped me more than you know or have sparked some good ideas in my noggen
STUMP
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Stump, I sand the inside of the barrels to 600 grit before I dip them. I just did some barrels, twice dipped in 100% spar. The inserts fit in the barrels with no problems. I too had some reservations about the finish in the bore making the diameter smaller, but someone told me to not worry about it since the finish isn't as thick as we think it is.
Brian
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Brian,
I`ll give it a try the way your doing it first and see how it works out. After thinning out the spar it might not be as thick like you said.
Are you using the same dip on you oily wood like cocobolo and bocote? I though about buying the laquer from Sherman Williams with the hardner added on those woods.
I`ll be glad when I finally come up with a finish that looks good and lasts. Then HOPEFULLY it will be smooth sailing from there.
Oh and I have to go to Lowes and pick up a cabnet as well. Gonna look in the damaged section to save a few coins as I think I`ve spent more money on finishes than in wood :oops:
STUMP
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I haven't figured out a good finish that will last for the oily woods yet.
Brian
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If you have a local Habitat For Humanity check to see if they have a resale store for donated items. Cabinets can be real cheap, might be used or off the wall ugly, but still cheap.
The inside diameter won't be affected if you sand the inside, sanding probably takes off as much or more than you can add on with 2 dips in the Spar varnish.
Marvin
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Stump I experimented on a bocote barrel a few weeks ago and dipped it in thinned spar. The outside dried in about 3 weeks and the inside is still tacky. Safe to say it was a failure.
I was looking at a cocobolo Echo timber call I've had for years. It has a thick glossy finish on it, and it has held up reasonably well for a decade. It obviously wasn't dipped, as the inside of the barrel is raw wood. I'd LOVE to know what finish they used that built up so nicely and stuck to cocobolo. Maybe they sprayed it with shellac and then shot it with spar or something???? I think I'm seeing another experiment coming......Spar over shellac! :huh:
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I`ve tried the spar over shellac thing...no go. I used the shellac sealer, then shellac, and then spar. 8 days later still tacky so I stripped it off and used mylands. But if you decide to try let me know how it works out. As I may have made a mistake here or there
STUMP
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I`ve tried the spar over shellac thing...no go. I used the shellac sealer, then shellac, and then spar. 8 days later still tacky so I stripped it off and used mylands. But if you decide to try let me know how it works out. As I may have made a mistake here or there
STUMP
Thanks, I'll take your word for it! :yes: