THO Game Calls Forums
The Art of Handcrafting Custom Game Calls => Handcrafting Custom Turkey Calls => Topic started by: Rick Howard on April 19, 2015, 02:30:03 PM
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Here is my method of turning a two piece striker using a collet chuck and a couple things I made specific for this. I have a PSI collet chuck that does not come with a 5/16" collet. Yes one can be bought but my solution works fine. This method maximizes your wood with minimal waste.
First I made a 5/15" collar for the dowel so I can fit the dowel into my 5/8" collet and shape the tip of the dowel on the lathe . I know shaping the tip is not a huge time taker but it takes me 20 seconds to shape a tip on the lathe using a 1/4" spintle gouge and a piece of 150 grit sand paper. It also comes out looking pretty nice. To make the collar I chucked a piece of 5/8" delrin in my collet and drilled it 5/16". Then I cut two slits in opposite directions on the band saw. Notice the two slits in opposite directions go about 3/4 the length. This makes it grip the dowel like a collet.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r612/rhoward327/2015-04-19%2011.28.12_zpsgbddggtw.jpg) (http://s1174.photobucket.com/user/rhoward327/media/2015-04-19%2011.28.12_zpsgbddggtw.jpg.html)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r612/rhoward327/2015-04-19%2011.28.18_zpstsuqnlrz.jpg) (http://s1174.photobucket.com/user/rhoward327/media/2015-04-19%2011.28.18_zpstsuqnlrz.jpg.html)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r612/rhoward327/2015-04-19%2011.28.53_zpsq7xlihyg.jpg) (http://s1174.photobucket.com/user/rhoward327/media/2015-04-19%2011.28.53_zpsq7xlihyg.jpg.html)
Turn the tip how you would like it then sand it up quick.
For the head of the striker I made a collar just like the one above but.. I inserted a bolt wich I used plumbers putty to secure it permanent. Then cut the head off the bolt and filed a flat spot making a pin chuck. I used a peice on 1/8" brass rod for my pin. File the flat spot on the bolt so that the middle is flush with the pin. When the pill rolls it will then hold your piece. The photos witll explain a lot here. I use the tail stock to support the turning almost 100%. I take it away just to remove the dimple left by the cone and for sanding and finishing.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r612/rhoward327/2015-04-19%2011.48.20_zpseq22a35v.jpg) (http://s1174.photobucket.com/user/rhoward327/media/2015-04-19%2011.48.20_zpseq22a35v.jpg.html)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r612/rhoward327/2015-04-19%2011.53.24_zpsvhtenccx.jpg) (http://s1174.photobucket.com/user/rhoward327/media/2015-04-19%2011.53.24_zpsvhtenccx.jpg.html)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r612/rhoward327/2015-04-19%2011.54.05_zpselnnatcp.jpg) (http://s1174.photobucket.com/user/rhoward327/media/2015-04-19%2011.54.05_zpselnnatcp.jpg.html)
Both of these gadgets are very easy to make and are reusable.
Assemble your striker how you want.
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I apologize that the first photo came out bad. Also the slits in the pin mandrel collar are not needed. I tried as a less permanent method first. It works better if you use the plumbers putty to make it permanent. Also a 5/16" piece of bar stock will probably work just fine too. Better probably but I did not have any laying around. I had the lag bolt so I made it work.
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Good stuff man. I really like the addition of the castration band for holding the pin when it is not in use.
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I like it, you also get an A+ on using the castration band to hold the pin, but I will stick to my O ring.
Marvin
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Huh. That's a great idea (the homemade collet and the band). I won't have to dig through the drawer for a pin anymore! Thanks for the tip.
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Thank you fellas. I forgot to mention the band servers a couple purposes. To keep the pin in place when not in use. Also the band helps me gauge size at a glance. I push it out of the way for sanding and finishing once I have it all turned. Until that point it butts up against the blank. I pushed it back for the photo so that the mandrel would show better.
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Every time I have ever used my pin mandrel for a 2 piece it always come out crooked. I have to just use a blind mandrel and the work the end really well when I am done.
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I have not had any issue with crooked. My guess the cause for crooked would be forcing a center with the tail stock.
My lathe is second hand and it was not well cared for by its previous owner. That tail stock has some play in it and the headstock is ment to swivel also has some play. So I have become pretty proficient and finding ways to mark centers and getting things to line up.
When I apply pressure with the tail stock I look to see if I am forcing a center. If I am I will back the tailstock away then square the end before bringing the tail stock back up. After turning when I remove the tail stock, if there is still any wobble I can true it up, quickly, with a couple light passes while hooking my finger around the piece to avoid chatter.
Its not the only way. Might not be the best way. But I save the most amount of wood I can.
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Every time I have ever used my pin mandrel for a 2 piece it always come out crooked. I have to just use a blind mandrel and the work the end really well when I am done.
Is your pin mandrel a tight fit? If yes then I am going to say it is the end grand on the blank. When you tighten the tailstock into the end grain, the live center will follow the softest resistance actually twisting the mandrel off center. End result is an off center handle when you release the pressure of the tailstock live center. Same thing happens on duck call inserts.
Marvin
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Fun bump Brandon found! Thanks again Rick!
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Yeah no problem!