THO Game Calls Forums
The Art of Handcrafting Custom Game Calls => Handcrafting Custom Predator Calls => Predator Call Making Tutorials => Topic started by: Braz on November 30, 2008, 06:19:05 PM
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I know Al has a great tutorial, but thought I would toss this one in too. It is a bit different than Al's and gives one other way of doing it. This is not the only way to do it, in fact, it is only the way I do it most of the time. I do it other ways for different reasons when making different calls. But it will give you an idea of how I do it the majority of the time. In fact, while this is how I make a closed reed call, it is also how I make open reed calls, duck calls and goose calls, all using inserts. The major difference is the size hole that I drill. But on to the process.
The first thing to do is to get your stock to a dowel configuration. If you are buying dowel stock, this step is unnecessary. But, using square stock, the first thing to do is to find the center of both ends. I use a tool to do this.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall01.jpg)
I then mark the center with a center punch to be sure and have a point where my drive center and live center won't slip.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall02.jpg)
I use a super drive center from PSI in the head stock and a live center in the tail stock.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall03.jpg)
Mount up the square blank, utilizing the center punched holes for alignment.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall04.jpg)
Begin turning the square stock to round.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall05.jpg)
Turn until the stock is nice and round and smooth. I like to use my skew and square up the ends. Do one end first, then switch the dowel end for end and do the other end.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall06.jpg)
I then use the 4 jaw chuck and use the live center, again using that hole in the end, to be sure the dowel is perfectly centered in the chuck as I tighten it in.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall07.jpg)
I then mount the Jacobs chuck in the tail stock, insert my drill bit, in this case a 5/8" bit. You can see the mark on the bit to which I will drill for depth.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall08.jpg)
Drill the blank out to the depth I have marked on the bit.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall09.jpg)
I then put a step bit in the Jacobs chuck to open up the end of the blank.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall10.jpg)
Drill it out so you have a nice opening.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall11.jpg)
I use a tool to smooth out the ridges left by the step bit. Then I begin to sand it. I use a dowel and 1" wide sandpaper.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall12.jpg)
This allows me to get into the depth of the bell end, and I sand to 500 grit.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall13.jpg)
I then use a piece of paper towel on the dowel, slathered with EEE, followed up with BLO to finish the bell end.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall14.jpg)
The bell end comes out looking nice.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall15.jpg)
I drill out now with a 9/32" bit. I should have done it before finishing the bell, but sometimes I forget the steps. ;D
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall17.jpg)
Now I mount my Collet Chuck with a 5/8" expanding mandrel.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall16.jpg)
Mount the blank on the Collet chuck, bell end first. Remove the Jacobs Chuck and replace it with the live center. I like to use the live center in the hole, again to help assure the blank is lined up properly.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall18.jpg)
I first turn the mouth end.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall19.jpg)
I then move the live center back into place and begin turning the rest of the body. The live center helps provide stability as I turn the body. At this point the body is turned and I am putting some decorative lines on it. I have a tool that makes the lines perfectly spaced.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall20.jpg)
After cutting the lines, I burn them with a piece of wire with dowels on the ends. Caution, never wrap the wire around your finger. Hold the dowels with only your finger tips. If the wire catches, it will be pulled from your hand. Better than pulling your finger OFF!
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall21.jpg)
Then sand the call. I go through 500 grit, and then use EEE and then BLO. The call can be finished any way you like, including dipping after you are done. But at this point, the lathe work is done.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall22.jpg)
This is when I buff the call. I use the three buff system, using Tripoli, the White Diamond and finish it off with Carnuba Wax. I like this finish. I know, some say it is not finished, but if you put wax on the call on a regular basis, just like a gun stock, the call will last a long, long time.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall27.jpg)
Then we need to put the sleeve in the call.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall23.jpg)
I put a bit of super glue on the sleeve and drop it in.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall24.jpg)
I like to set the sleeve about 1/4" into the hole.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall25.jpg)
We then drop the JC tone board into the hole and push it in so the top is flush with the top of the sleeve.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall26.jpg)
If you are proud of your work, you must find a way to sign it. I like to do it inside the bell end with an extra fine point Gold or Silver marker. It really seems to last. I not only sign BRAZ, but also the month and year the call was made.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall28.jpg)
And then you have a finished call ready for a customer.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/alpenliter/MakePredCall29.jpg)
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FANTASTIC Braz!!! ;D I learned somethings here I can apply to my call building across the board. Now tell me what you think about the buffer set up you have? I've been thinking about getting that attachment and was going to ask her what folks think about it.
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I really like the three buff system. It is so easy to use and takes up very little space. I keep the buffing wheels under my bench grinder. I just pull it out, mount it up and away I go. Puts a really nice finish on any material. I even have some buffs that I dedicate to metal only. I use the system from PSI, much less expensive. http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LBUFFSYS.html
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;) ;D Good lookin' stuff there Braz! Thanks for the tips!
Parker
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Thanks Braz, I've done made up my mind ;D Miss Kathy ain't gonna like it but I will.....LOL ;)
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You won't be sorry. You are going to wonder how you ever got along without it.
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Very nice tutorial! I've got a couple of howler reeds, I just need to take a break from turning handles for Christmas presents and pens and turn one!
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Great photos and process there Braz!
Brian, you can make yourself a 2 or 3 wheel buffing system pretty easily. All you need are the buffing wheels, and some all-thread, and some locknuts. I'll see if I have some pics my homemade one around here someplace.
Brian
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That was a good post I picked some ideas up there. Thanks Braz
Tim
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Great post Braz. I'm going to the shop later to grind me on of those line dealies. Thanks for the great idea.
CW
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Good post Braz.
Email sent to you Heirloom.
Marvin
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Here are the line cutting tools that I use. They work great for a lot of different things.
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCBEAD4.html
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I have a bunch of CHEAP screwdrivers I shapped into pointed chisels on different angles to make lines or even to make some of the weird shapes I want. I usually just stop by Lowes or Home Depot and grab about $20 worth of the 99 cent screwdrivers they alays seem to have. The drawback is that they are not as uniform as what Braz does. But he has given me an idea.... :o
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:D DANG! That call sure looks better in person than it does in those photos! THANK YOU BRAZ! :D
Parker
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David found this gem for us to move through the predator call tutorial section.