THO Game Calls Forums
The Art of Handcrafting Custom Game Calls => Handcrafting Custom Turkey Calls => Turkey Call Making Tutorials => Topic started by: Mac Dietrich on February 03, 2013, 10:59:52 AM
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Here is how I make my favorite style of pot calls. There are lots of ways to do it but this happens to be my favorite. First pic is of all the tools I use. Not all are necessary but I've found this works best for me. Pictured is far left orbital hand held sander with hook and loop sanding disks 80,120,150,220,320,400. Up top is square with pencil and spring loaded center punch. Next to it is PSI 4 jaw chuck this get used for the intire process which is why I like doing my calls this way....no changing different jaws and I'm also not a huge fan of the center hole commonly used in making pot calls. Below that is 3/4" bit used for holding pot on jaw and 1/2" bit for sound holes. Calipers and finally my easy wood tools and a small parting tool.
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/A1C65EE6-7449-4A1C-B638-F735303EA44F-2479-000000F611E1A8C0.jpg)
Next step I use square and pencil and find corners. I use square simply because there is no such thing as a perfectly square 1"x4"x4" pot call blank which is what I'm using. I've found that using the center findering tools sometimes won't get ya a perfect center if the blank is not perfectly square. Agian this is just how I do it and if ya have center finder and it works for ya by all means use it.
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/EF4C757A-B96B-46C5-9694-8C49DFE32BC2-2479-000000F9FAB741A4.jpg)
Next I use center punch and get my center hole.
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/707A6ED5-A0D7-4A2C-BF92-FB860E0AD22F-2479-000000FBBCAFD44D.jpg)
I then use calipers to find my measurements for the remaining 4 holes note the calipers is not exactly 4.0" nor were the other 3 sides. This method insures you get the holes exactly square.
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/48A3B673-46C1-4F06-A87E-49850A294ADD-2479-000000FDC573A014.jpg)
Here is the next pic with my 4.027" side and exactly in the center. I then make my marks on all 4 sides and draw lines across to get my remaining lines needed for hole placement.
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/3128B54C-04D5-4507-A451-BC04EEADF827-2479-000000FF2E910D38.jpg)
This is how it should look with all sides lined up square. Note lines are running through center punch hole. This will be outcome every time using this method. It is a lot of extra steps but insures a perfectly lined up call ready for sound holes.
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/0DE5CB7C-E653-4A54-A167-21167D284CD5-2479-0000010156CACF40.jpg)
Next I use calipers again and measure for the sound holes. This step you can vary the measurement to whatever dimensions you wish. I'm using 1" and ill be using a 1/2" bit for holes but you can use any size bit for your sound holes just take into consideration the diameter of bit in relation to final size of pot call...meaning if your gonna use say 3/4" and your hole is 1.5" from center your going to be extremly close to edge of call when turning round.
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/B7224823-D061-4366-BDE4-55B6CEF35617-2479-0000010325EC22C4.jpg)
I then use calipers as a kinda protractor leaving the sharp point in center hole and make a circle to mark placement of sound holes I've highlighted the mark with pencil so you can see the ring it leaves
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/638CBEDC-C17D-4A7E-8A18-BE145E94FA87-2479-000001065DD66504.jpg)
Now that I have my marks I use center punch again on the 8 hole marks and proceed to drill holes on those marks
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/E6491302-03DC-4720-8D74-BA9064899C3B-2479-000001081723D760.jpg)
I first drill center hole which is 3/4" approximately .17" thick using calipers
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/A757FF67-0642-4BC3-9B9B-F0B4A00054A7-2479-0000010C8646F176.jpg)
Next I drill sound holes .35"
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/F9D6413E-E56A-45AF-8650-118EE8D96BB6-2479-0000010C8D5E27CF.jpg)
I then use band saw and cut off 1/4" the corners to make it a little easier getting it round on lathe
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/58938967-1667-4C50-8D71-6F78DACAF25E-2479-0000010E98CBEE81.jpg)
Now I've got it on the chuck and and ready to turn round!
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/E7B88EEA-4FB2-4169-8A5C-ABF1BF3425A3-2479-0000010F94543E12.jpg)
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/FF186697-0D6B-4277-891D-3C161777C27D-2479-000001163CF945A8.jpg)
Now I have pot call turn round I will square up the face end and I do the inside of pot and pedastal... I turn and sand on speed 5 of my delta lathe which is 2650rpm. My measurements for this calls insides are .125" for the edge of plain surface to sit on..which is ceramic for this call and this measurement will vary from call to call based on thickness of playing surface. My next measurement is from edge to bottom of call which is .58" and finally the pedastal height is .37"
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/7ABE5D43-D0AD-4BB6-936B-D26D09D45618-2479-00000118475D897C.jpg)
Next I flip the call over and use the same jaws to hold the pedastal and shape my call. NOTE make sure everything on the inside of call is fit up and good to your specifications as this will be the last time the inside will be able to be accessed.
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/9582DB4A-6A83-4553-A52B-AA6C29A70FAD-2479-0000011BBA0BA31A.jpg)
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/D6DA5208-609D-4A83-980D-F6F9326937E4-2479-0000011BBFBA3A8F.jpg)
Here is a picture of call shaped before sanding
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/BCCAF7BB-9F30-435C-9A7D-66F6C0A660B7-2479-0000011E8766DA58.jpg)
Next is a picture of the orbital hand held sander. I will use all grits listed previously and then use 0000 steel wool by hand to finish sanding.
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/908FC7A6-BC6C-401E-B624-A0B1D2178B75-2479-00000120593F26FF.jpg)
Here is what it should look like once you have been through all the grits on sander and after hand sanded 0000 steel wool
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/15DE57FF-48EC-43DC-9695-DBAF74067CDB-2479-000001240EA804A7.jpg)
You can now apply your favorite finish to your call. I then glue up the sound board with goop and let set over night on a flat surface. Once it's dry you do the same for whatever playing surface your using and call is now complete! Hope this help someone in the future!! Be safe in your shop and good luck!!!
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w421/macdietrich/046604B8-86E7-4169-B728-E35A2C0402B4-2479-00000124127B1297.jpg)
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Excellent Mac!
Thanks for taking the time to do such a nice tutorial! :bigup: :thanks:
Doug
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That's a really good way to lay out those holes! I think I'm going to borrow that from you haha!! How does using the orbital sander to sand the back work for you? I bet it really takes off some wood!
Jake
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That's a really good way to lay out those holes! I think I'm going to borrow that from you haha!! How does using the orbital sander to sand the back work for you? I bet it really takes off some wood!
Jake
Jake it works very well I keep the lathe on while using the powered sander. It makes sanding very effective and makes quick work of call. I don't bother sanding inside call simply because nobody see's it and I use sharp tools and that is key if your not sanding the inside...you can if you want though sand the inside.
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Are you able to sand the sides of the call with the sander? Or can you not because of the closeness of your chuck? Also, what orbital sander is that? I bet it does make really quick work of the call! I wonder how it would work at 750 rpm or so>
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Very interesting pedistal Mac! Looks like that call design would leave some great room for some art work!
Thanks for sharing this. And thanks for the details!
Mac's calls are really THAT smooth guys! After holding a clear acrylic grunt call from the guy, I know he is crazy about details!
Vince
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Are you able to sand the sides of the call with the sander? Or can you not because of the closeness of your chuck? Also, what orbital sander is that? I bet it does make really quick work of the call! I wonder how it would work at 750 rpm or so>
Jake the top side is hard to get sander in between chuck and call. What I usually do is use the pads once I take them off sander and get in between using each 1. Then use the steel wool aswell. As far as the sanding speed the 2650 rpm of the lathe works well for me but I'm certain you could use 750. The sander is a worksite brand model #ED118 it is 3/8" close angle sander with 0-1400 rpm also accepts the hook and loop style sanding head.
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Mac, what an awesome tutorial!!! Thank you for sharing it with us. It'll help a lot of new callmakers out for sure, and I'm betting more than a few guys that have been doing it for a while will see an idea or two in there that they can implement into their own methods.
:thanks:
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Are you able to sand the sides of the call with the sander? Or can you not because of the closeness of your chuck? Also, what orbital sander is that? I bet it does make really quick work of the call! I wonder how it would work at 750 rpm or so>
Jake the top side is hard to get sander in between chuck and call. What I usually do is use the pads once I take them off sander and get in between using each 1. Then use the steel wool aswell. As far as the sanding speed the 2650 rpm of the lathe works well for me but I'm certain you could use 750. The sander is a worksite brand model #ED118 it is 3/8" close angle sander with 0-1400 rpm also accepts the hook and loop style sanding head.
I'll have to try that out sometime! Thanks for the details on that Mac!!
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A lot of good info there! Thanks for taking the time to put that together. I'll definitely be grabbing a few techniques for the next time I try a pot. :thanks:
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A pot call takes me approximately 1 hr to make this way depending on the finish of course and of course glue up of call pieces. I wish I could have done the tutorial write up that fast... I did the whole thing on my iPhone cause I was to lazy to go and get the good camera and didn't wanna have to use the computer so each photo I took I added to write up instantly. Took me about 4 hrs doing it on my cell phone :stickman1: but worth it as long as guys learn from it and maybe use some of the ideas.
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Good looking tutorial. Thanks for putting that together. Lots of folks will find that to be a great method. Eveyone can find something in there for sure.
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This is great! I am trying to get the guts to start my first pot call and this is brilliant! :thanks:
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how are you holding the blank on the jaw chuck to round it off?
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how are you holding the blank on the jaw chuck to round it off?
The 4 jaw pin chuck goes into the 3/4" hole approximately .17" and expands and holds it. I haven't had 1 come off yet and not saying it won't or couldnt but I've probely done 40 or so this way.
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THANKS MAC :bigup:
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You DA MAN MAC!
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Thanks I appreciate the kind words!!! Now if I can just find time to do a tutorial on how I make my strikers we'd really be in buisness!
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I really like this approach. Does the PSI chuck short for Penn State Industries?
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I really like this approach. Does the PSI chuck short for Penn State Industries?
Yes, it is.
Vince
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A great way to make a pot call with a 4 jaw if you have the pin jaws. PSI tends to send the pin set free these days.
Any updated thoughts to this method Mac?
Vince
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A great way to make a pot call with a 4 jaw if you have the pin jaws. PSI tends to send the pin set free these days.
Any updated thoughts to this method Mac?
Vince
Still my favorite way to make a pot call. Interesting you brought this thread up top as just I made 3 of them recently with this method. Starting out its a cheap way to make them as you don't need mandrels and or collet chuck. You are correct about the pin jaws aswell. My set from psi came with them I have the barracuda 2 set. The other nice thing about the 4 jaw set I have is I can make 2 piece strikers with it aswell.
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I agree. When I feel like using my 4 jaw (prepared to watch mu knuckles), I just get out the one with the pin jaw set, and I can do the striker head, and the call just with that chuck.
Vince
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I am confused about the pedestal. Is it a dowel rod that you used to fill the center hole? Just curious I have had some folks ask me to make them one and would like to make them one and one for my self as well. :xmas:
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I am confused about the pedestal. Is it a dowel rod that you used to fill the center hole? Just curious I have had some folks ask me to make them one and would like to make them one and one for my self as well. :xmas:
This style call uses no center hole the jaws are grabbing the inch or so pedestal you make inside the pot itself
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ok thank you!!
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Steel Rain, most folks prefer a sound board in their calls. It helps to resonate the sound more, keeping the call from being flat, or hollow.
The pedestal is where the sound board is glued to. It is VERY important when this gluing takes place that the sound board is not touching the inside walls of the call. I prefer a 3" round double weight glass sound board in single side setups. I like a 3" slate sound board for a double sided caller.
Vince
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This a great go to when you need the info on how to. I was lucky to have Mac invite me down to his house and learn all that. Very great info.
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Does the pedestal touch the sound board or is the sound board glued to it, do you put a pc of glass under the spond board for strength??
Need some help
Wayne
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Wayne, the soundboard is glued to the pedestal.... Most guys use plumbers GOOP..
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David, Thanks for your reply, can you help me with my other questions? First time trying to make a pot call
Wayne
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Wayne the pediatal will hold your sound board. It can be any surface you'd like glass, wood, aluminum etc. you need a distance between the sound board and the actual playing surface. Typicaly 1/8-1/16" just have to play with it to see what works best for you. If ya got any more questions feel free to ask
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Just like mac said, feel free to ask as many questions as you want, these guys WILL help you!! :beer:
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I am having trouble with the glass surface cracking down the middle. I have a gap in between the wood and the glass. Not sure why it's doing it, not in high temps. Anyone have any advice? Thanks
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Do the striking surface and soundboard touch each other? If not, what is the distance between them?
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The sound board and striker surfaces do not touch. Start with one glass thickness separation. Increase as needed to get the sound you like.
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It is very important that the soundboard not touch anything but the glue joint (GOOP much preferred) of the pedestal.
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All of your pictures are gone. Photobucket does that. Can you post the pictures back please?
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This is the fix for the Photobucket fiasco.
http://thogamecallsforums.com/index.php/topic,24312.0.html
Al @ THO Game Calls
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New here, looking to jump in with both feet!
Curious, can anyone tell me what the red handled tool is in the first post?
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One of these maybe.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/sorby-micro-hollowing-set?via=573621f469702d06760016cd%2C57641e3c69702d6593002bd2%2C57641e5169702d2f2f0001ba
Not sure of the tip used in the photo. The handle will accommodate a variety of tips. Maybe Mac will tell us which tip.
I use a 1/16 and/or 1/8 inch parting tool to hollow out the pot. Works just fine and I already have the parting tools.
Fred
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One of these maybe.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/sorby-micro-hollowing-set?via=573621f469702d06760016cd%2C57641e3c69702d6593002bd2%2C57641e5169702d2f2f0001ba
Not sure of the tip used in the photo. The handle will accommodate a variety of tips. Maybe Mac will tell us which tip.
I use a 1/16 and/or 1/8 inch parting tool to hollow out the pot. Works just fine and I already have the parting tools.
Fred
No hiccups using the parting tool? Is that also what you use to create the step for the surface? Everything I have other than my parting tool seems too large to get inside the pot with any sort of accuracy.
Thanks!
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Yes I use my parting tool to create the ledge where the striker surface sits.
I use a glass sound board under the striker surface. The 2 surfaces do not touch! I would start with a glass thickness (about 0.100") of separation between the 2 surfaces and then adjust the separation for the sound you are looking for.
Fred
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It's a mini Sorby Hollowing tool. It accepts different cutters and is used for hollowing out things like vases and other forms.
Al @ THO