THO Game Calls Forums
The Art of Handcrafting Custom Game Calls => Handcrafting Custom Duck Calls => Duck & Goose Call Making Tutorials => Topic started by: BigB on December 03, 2012, 10:40:19 PM
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If you have never tuned a duck call toneboard, this tutorial is aimed at giving some instructions on where to start the process. There are other tutorials on how to make toneboards, but this will be focussed on getting sounds to come from the toneboard, and learning the basic dimensions and parameters that affect the sound coming from the call. We will intentionally ruin some parts in this learning process, but it is needed for learning. No shame in ruining some reeds and cork in this process. Adjustments to the toneboard aren't as easily reversible as replacing the reed and cork, so always adjust reeds and cork first before tweaking on the toneboard itself. There is no right or wrong answer when going through this process. But you will have to go through this process and hear how each parameter affects the sound of the call.
Here is a handy reference to keep track of the dimensions on the toneboard:
(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6172/6212649354_66ef4963fd_z.jpg)
The first step is to take an uncut insert and insert it into the jig. I am using a RiverMallard public jig for this tutorial, and all of the dimensions in the instructions are based off of it.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/94D38285-9D6E-438F-A766-EC80944B69D6-6038-0000115518731D1B.jpg)
Next step is to measure the distance from the end of the tonechannel to the end of the jig (dimension F in the reference pic). This is a little difficult, since the end of the tonechannel is hidden in the toneboard. But take a measurement from the exhaust end of the insert to the end of the tonechannel, and then get a measurement from the exhaust end of the insert to the toneboard tip of the jig.
The first dimension we are going to start with, is .500" (half an inch) from the end of the tonechannel to the end of the jig for dimension F.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/55542316-8157-4F53-8397-93A074D01F0C-6038-000011551EA485EF.jpg)
When cutting the toneboard arc, make sure you file the toneboard to the exact shape of the toneboard jig. We want to only adjust 1 thing at a time when learning what dimensions affect the sound of the call. So, repeatability of the toneboard arc will be important at first.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/BA3CCD53-36D7-4E6E-8536-AA1E3846DFBB-6038-0000115525028B4E.jpg)
The next thing we are going to do is install a reed. Cut a piece of .010" mylar .550" wide by 1.500" long. Cut a piece of cork .400" wide by .700" long.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/E8871FEB-EA2B-40DB-AB57-480BEE5F65B7-6038-000011572CD1FB71.jpg)
Place the reed lengthwise between your thumb and index finger. Gently bend the reed to see which way it flexes. The part the flexes outward will be the part that will contact the toneboard surface.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/5FECBA1F-50BD-4801-A914-FE1102E6D6B9-6038-000011573361F111.jpg)
Install the reed and cork onto the toneboard. Ensure that both the reed and cork are both fully seated against the back wall of the cork notch. There will be a little bit extra cork that sticks out in front of the cork notch. This is ok and is intentional.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/F7413891-FCB4-4AB1-AA26-A3EF9C2D9240-6038-000011573EF91F4C.jpg)
Cut the excess cork off the side of the cork notch.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/038A4389-6615-43DA-8D57-558FF250930F-6038-0000115744F7B96D.jpg)
The next part now is to take the insert and put it in a barrel. Blow on the duck call trying to get a variety of quacks from the call, both loud and soft, and also perform a hail call.
Record the following:
1) How hard was the call to blow?
2) How did the call sound? Was the pitch high or low? Did the call squeal out?
3) Did the call feel like it took a lot of pressure to blow correctly?
Without adjusting anything, we are going to trim the reed length to see how the length of the reed affects the sound.
With the reed still in the toneboard, cut off .01-.02" ("a hair") off of the end of the reed. A little bit makes a BIG difference, so take off as little bit as possible.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/F1DF53EB-D6D3-45DA-A810-232D9B68800D-6038-00001157A9BD9315.jpg)
Install the insert back into the barrel, and blow on the duck call. Answer the 3 questions, keeping in mind the changes from the previous try:
1) How hard was the call to blow?
2) How did the call sound? Was the pitch high or low? Did the call squeal out?
3) Did the call feel like it took a lot of pressure to blow correctly?
Keep cutting a hair off the end of the reed until the reed is the same length as the tonechannel, repeating the process of blowing on the calls, and writing down the results of the 3 questions.
Continued on the next post:
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The next parameter we are going to adjust is the width of the cork.
Take a new reed with the same dimensions as what we started with originally, and install it and the original cork. Adjust the length of the reed, like we just did until the reed sounds pretty good. Then remove the reed and cork. Trim the length of the cork, similar to what we have been doing with the reed. Reinstall the reed and cork, and install the insert in a barrel.
Blow on the duck call and write down the results of how it sounds.
Repeat the process of trimming the length of the cork, repeating the process of writing down the results of how it sounds.
The next parameter we are going to adjust is the width of the reed. Cut some reeds that are slightly wider and slightly narrower than the original reed. Install a reed and new cork in the toneboard, and repeat the process of blowing on the call, writing down what it sounds like, trimming the reed, and trying again.
The next parameter we are going to adjust is the "dog ears" on the end of the reed. In the previous excercises, we should have found a reed length that sounds pretty good. Once we find that reed length for that particular toneboard, we are going to cut the corners off of the reed. Trimming off the corners is called putting "dog ears" on the reed.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/B8A4F603-8B02-4A74-8255-C9DF802841DD-6038-0000115863C4E447.jpg)
Adjust different angles and sizes of the dog ears, and check how each trim affects the sound of the call.
The next parameter we are going to adjust is the tonechannel length.
Insert another uncut toneboard into the jig. This time, we are going to adjust things so "dimension F" is .450". Repeat the process of inserting a reed and cork, and dialing in the lengths of the reed, cork and dog ears to get a good sounding call.
Insert another uncut toneboard into the jig. This time, we are going to adjust things so "dimension F" is .400". Repeat the process of inserting a reed and cork, and dialing in the lengths of the reed, cork and dog ears to get a good sounding call.
By this time, we should be getting the hang of how adjusting the length of the reed, the length of cork, dog ear shape, and the length of the toneboard is affecting the sound of the call.
These directions should provide a pretty good starting point of dimensions to try to get a duck call sounding pretty decent. The natural progression from here, to get get a really good sounding call, and filing on different parts of the toneboard to see how each location affects the sound from the call.
It's really that easy. It's not hard. It just takes some time and diligence to learn how the different dimensions result in different sounds.
Brian
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WOW what an awesome tutorial especially for us noobies
Thanks
BB
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WOW!!! Big B, this is awesome. For someone who is goin through this process right now, I could not be happier with what you have posted. A little direction can go a long way. Thanks a million. I am sure there are going to be a lot of thankful members.
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Great tut BigB. I remember when I went through this process, and I can really appreciate all that goes into making a good quack. This should be a great guide for beginners.
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I am learning toneboards myself right now. My biggest hurdles are 2 items. 1. Sticky reed. What causes the reed to stick when you jump on a call hard? 2. Too much air is needed to blow the call, but the call sounds decent except it can be flat sounding on the low end.
Thank you for taking the time to do this tutorial, it came at a great time. :beer:
Brad
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:bigup: :bigup: great job. This should help out some new guys to take the plunge in to trying their own toneboards.
-Phil
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Great writeup B. Thanks for taking the time to put this all together!
Vince
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Make this a sticky!!
I've been waiting a long time for this tutorial. Posted up a request for one on the other site and was told there are too many variables.
This tutorial is perfect for us duck call noobs. THANK YOU!!!
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Thank you SO MUCH for making this tutorial. As a new call maker I have been leary of making my own inserts. This tutorial has changed that and now I feel that I am on the way to making Complete calls.
You are the man!!!!
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Thanks a alot. This needs to be a sticky :bigup:
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Make this a sticky!!
I've been waiting a long time for this tutorial. Posted up a request for one on the other site and was told there are too many variables.
This tutorial is perfect for us duck call noobs. THANK YOU!!!
And that's why this is the best site on the web.
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I've been waiting a long time for this tutorial. Posted up a request for one on the other site and was told there are too many variables.
This tutorial hasn't really revealed any secrets to tuning toneboards. But in reality, there aren't any secrets to tuning toneboards. Experience trying different things will reveal the secrets of the different sounds. And those secrets can only be discovered by trying things yourselves and blowing on the duck call to see what the outcome is.
There are LOTS of different variables in a duck call. And it is difficult for someone to know exactly what variable to adjust when someone wants to know what a certain variable will do to the sound. And that is because it depends on the other variables. If someone says it's high pitched and they want to lower the pitch, a few different variables could be adjusted depending on the other variables. Like to get a deeper pitch, you can either lengthen the reed, widen the reed, or use less dog ears. Knowing which one of those variables to choose first depends on the tonechannel length, tonechannel diameter and shape of the toneboard arc. That is why it is so difficult for folks to provide the exact variable to adjust since it depends on the other variables. But going through the steps outlined here, and expanding on the instructions here to try different tone channel diameters, reed heights, cork densities, and exhaust diameters, that will teach yourself to know what variable to adjust to achieve your desired sound based on all the other variables you have designed into the insert.
And remember- Take Good Notes!
Brian
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thank you for the time you put into this.i do little duck hunting and need to try and making these and after reading this i think i will try this very soon.. thanks brian
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Good write up Brian. Yeah a book could be written on tuning and adjusting tone boards and still not cover it all. Each type of tone board could have it own chapter. :nthrd:
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A probably the newest call turner on this site. I am very appreciative of finding this tutorial here.
Thanks
Phil
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I have that little diagram printed up in multiples. It sure comes in handy when I start monkeying with my tone boards. Write everything down that you do to a tone board, because IT WILL CHANGE THE WAY IT SOUNDS, and I mean EVERYTHING! Kitch
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I would like to say that having the right equipment while making your inserts will make all the difference. I have experimented with many different processes, but in my opinion drilling on the lathe with the insert chucked up in a collet has been the most consistent for me. I turn down a raw blank between centers to the insert shape. Then chuck up, drill hole, cut tone-board, adjust anything needed. Keep into mind that every call will be different and reeds are cheap! Happy Holidays! :xmas:
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You the Man Brian... Excellent job!!!!!!!
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What a Great write up Brian! You unselfishly provided a great foundation for future, and present day call makers, to build upon. Heck, I might even try duck hunting in the hopes that someday I'll be able to make a complete call from scratch.
Well done my friend!
HuntnCarve
Dave
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Thanks! Great tutorial, will be very helpful as I get back into making calls.
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Great job bud! I can remember when I first started out making my own inserts and boy was it a whole lot more messing up rather than getting a great product. Luckily I learned a few things along the way and can just now tweak it just enough to get what I want.
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Big B, I have made 6 calls so far, I did them all exactly the same. I made 6 barrels one after another then 6 tone boards.......and so on and so on. 2 of my calls sound perfect, the other 4, I have issues with them hanging up on me..... I guess what you call the "Squeal"..... My calls hardly take any air to make them quack, they are very easy to make noise, just the issue with the hang up is all thats bothering me. Even the ones that hang up, sound good, but as soon as I try the "Hail call" it hangs up on me. Thanks for any ideas.
John
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Also, I am using an up slope design for my tone board. and I use Bocote wood.
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Great article. Have used the article and drawing. Great aid in improving call sound. One area I have not done any research in is the length of the tone board channel (G) between the cork slot and exhaust (E). Has anyone done any testing in this dimension?
Thanks for any information.
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:thanks: :thanks: :thanks:
Fantastic tutorial!!
Now, can someone tell me how to get more volume out of my calls? It seems that mine just aren't as loud as some I've heard.
Thanks!
Fuzzy
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:thanks: :thanks: :thanks:
Fantastic tutorial!!
Now, can someone tell me how to get more volume out of my calls? It seems that mine just aren't as loud as some I've heard.
Thanks!
Fuzzy
I've seen your video on facebook demonstrating your first call. Please consider my comments constructive, as they are intended that way.
First, you need to work on learning to use a duck call. I don't assert that you have to be a great duck caller to be able to build a decent duck call, but you have to have some basic fundamentals pretty much mastered. From the videos you have posted on your facebook page, you do not know how to use a duck call at all. That can be overcome by practicing with a call that is known to sound good (your Echo inserts will sound fine) by using an instructional CD/video that teaches you those fundamentals. Then you need to practice. A lot. Building duck calls without being able to make basic realistic sounds is akin to building guitars without being able to play basic chords. Basic knowledge and skill of the instrument is a must. Also, duck calls are typically operated with one hand, without the 2nd hand cupped over the exhaust of the call as you would run a short reed goose call. Removing that 2nd hand alone will give you a realistic idea of your call's volume.
Your insert is visible in the video on facebook but your questions here need to be accompanied with some more information. Pics of the insert are an absolute must in most cases. People need to know what you've tried, what has worked, what hasn't worked, etc. From your video I was able to tell that the reed of your call goes past the tip of your call's insert. If you compare that to the Echo inserts you also use, you'll see that is a glaring difference and probably a good part of the reason your call does not sound right. Beyond that it appears that the cork doesn't fit very well and the shape of the reed is odd for a J-frame call.
I applaud your first attempt, as it is a starting point from which to grow your skills.
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:thanks: :thanks: :thanks:
Aaron, thank you so very much for the input!! I have sent you a friend request on Facebook. Honestly, you are right, I know NOTHING about using a duck call and need to learn more.
Also, I need serious help with the tone boards. I want to make my own but I'm about to throw my jig in the trash and stick with Echo's :stickman1:
I'm going to start a thread on here with pictures of my jig and a recently made tone board to ask for input as well.
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I know this is an older post but has great information for anyone learning to tune a call. The diagram is great, but, I cant find anywhere what each label is supposed to be. Item F is described as well as a couple of others, but does anyone have what each letter refers to and any measurements that go with it? As a newbie, and still learning parts and the how too's, it would be nice to have the labels as well as the diagram.
Thanks in advance
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I cant find anywhere what each label is supposed to be. Item F is described as well as a couple of others, but does anyone have what each letter refers to and any measurements that go with it?
A = reed length beyond the cork notch
B = tomeboard length
C = bore (cork notch to taper)
D = depth of tone channel
E = exhaust diameter
F = tone channel to end of toneboard
G = bore
X = depth of tone channel under reed
Y = depth of taper
If you search the posts in this forum you will find some of the general dimensions beyond those given by Brian. The best method is to start turning some inserts and keep notes of what works and what does not. I can't emphasize enough about keeping notes. They will be your most valuable tool in the shop. Change only one thing at a time (A-Y). Most call makers will help you out, but they will not give you exact dimensions. I for one, am grateful they did not as this forces you to learn how an insert works.
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Thank you very much, it is appreciated. That is what I was looking for :)
I have been working on my own jig from scratch and have a decent sound, but I need to tweak something as the sound is still just a little high and raspy for my own liking. That is why I wanted the information for the diagram. Notes Notes Notes, and yes I have many on my paper, time to start dwindling them down to where I am at now but yes they help big time :) I never expect anyone to give me their personal information, it's like actually duck hunting, scout scout scout and then its up to you to do it. Anyone wanting my X is barking up the wrong tree. Same with call making. Information Information Information and then go for it :) Thanks guys.
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I would recommend starting a new post and uploading a few pictures of your insert (side profile, top view, etc) with the reed and cork in place. Great bunch of guys on here. They will probably give you some advice.