THO Game Calls Forums
The Art of Handcrafting Custom Game Calls => Handcrafting Custom Duck Calls => Duck & Goose Call Making Tutorials => Topic started by: BigB on November 08, 2008, 11:21:48 PM
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I had some guys at work ask me how to make an Arkansas style duck call insert. So, I read up on a couple of methods of how to do it. Here is method two.
I started with a 1" diameter rod that was 4" long, and I mounted it in my 4 jaw chuck.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/duck%20tutorial/P1030678.jpg)
The next step is to drill the exhaust hole and tone channel. I use a drill stop on the drill bit to drill the exact depth that I need. I always double check that the drill stop is at the right depth.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/duck%20tutorial/P1030668.jpg)
Drill the blank to the proper depth.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/duck%20tutorial/P1030679.jpg)
One of the downsides to drilling the insert after it is turned to shape is the risk of drilling the tone channel off center. But this method will eliminate that risk.
Remove the 4 jaw chuck and install the collet chuck. The hole that we drilled in the blank was 1/4". Install a short piece of 1/4" diameter steel stock into the collet chuck. This will be used as a blind mandrel.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/duck%20tutorial/P1030680.jpg)
Install the drilled blank onto the blind mandrel.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/duck%20tutorial/P1030681.jpg)
Turn the insert to the desired shape, and final sand when done.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/duck%20tutorial/P1030683.jpg)
Remove the insert from the blind mandrel, and place it in the toneboard jig. Knowing how deep you drilled the insert, measure from the exhaust end of the insert to your reference point on the jig. Secure the insert in the jig with the set screw.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/duck%20tutorial/P1030671.jpg)
Take the insert to the band saw, and cut off the excess part above the toneboard jig. And cut out the cork notch. I don't cut right against the jig with the band saw blade because it dulls the band saw blade quickly.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/duck%20tutorial/P1030673.jpg)
I then take the toneboard still installed in the jig to the belt sander, and sand down to the profile of the jig.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/duck%20tutorial/P1030676.jpg)
Remove the insert from the jig, and it is ready for a reed, cork and tuning.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/byersba/duck%20tutorial/P1030682.jpg)
And feedback is appreciated.
Thanks,
Brian
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Very nicely done. Very easy to follow, with great descriptions and great pictures.
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Good job Brian. That is one slick looking insert.
Marvin
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Very cool job on these. Thank for the info. Very helpful.
Chad
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What would be your reference point on your jig?
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What he means by a reference point is the depth that the tone channel is drilled to in the insert. I have a line engraved in my jig so I know how far I want the channel to go. You get that line through trial and error. But it is roughly 1/2" from the end of the toneboard.
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Okay so it is in relation to how far you put the insert into the jig?
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You have to have know where the "magic" spot is on your jig. Then you drill to that depth.
Marvin
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Nice tutorial Brian , my only comment is be careful using the belt sander , files will not cut a jig , but aluminum oxide sanding belts will . and if you aren't careful you can ruin a jig pretty quick.
Wes
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Great tutorial!