THO Game Calls Forums
The Art of Handcrafting Custom Game Calls => Handcrafting Custom Duck Calls => Duck & Goose Call Making Tutorials => Topic started by: Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks on July 02, 2011, 10:27:36 PM
-
A few months back I got a little help making my first whistle from Mutt. Now I'm helping thedecoydude with his first. I've received a number of PMs from folks about making them so I'm going to give you guys enough info to get started making your own.
First, I drill a 1/2" hole into my blank, probably about 2-1/2" to 2-3/4" deep. It isn't super critical, you just need to drill past where the 2nd hole will be. I use an expanding mandrel as a crush mandrel or you can plug the end and drill your hole all the way through so you can use it as an expander.
Then I turn the blank round and mark my holes. I do not use a drill bit to drill them. I use a chamfering bit with a lot of cutting edges. Irwin makes mine and it is a 90 degree. I insert a 1/2" dowel into the call so the tip of the bit is fully supported all the way down. The dowel also prevents blowout on the inside of the call and leaves a pretty clean edge. They tend to chatter, but if you drill at high speed with the call mounted in a vise (and go slow), it works on any material. Getting a sharp edge on the hole is critical. Simply drilling a hole and leaving it squared off will absolutely prevent your whistle from whistling.
(http://i547.photobucket.com/albums/hh446/thekctermite/IMG_5608.jpg)
(http://i547.photobucket.com/albums/hh446/thekctermite/c61a78892d7a864b60076b78b34852c7.jpg)
Now that I've got my holes drilled, I put her back on the lathe and turn my whistle to shape. This is just like any call....You find a shape to make them look uniquely your own. The outside shape doesn't really do much of anything to the sound.
Here's how mine look when they're done being drilled and turned....I don't think they look like anyone else's on the outside, at least I hope they don't.
-
Now you have to make a toneboard. Make it from 1/2" dowel. I've also made them from 1/2" delrin plastic, or you could use acrylic. I use a disc sander to make mine. I clamp the dowel in a handscrew clamp and push it into the sander to get the profile in the picture. It isn't rocket science but you're basically creating an uphill ramp that'll force the air into the edge of the first hole you cut on the call blank.
(http://i547.photobucket.com/albums/hh446/thekctermite/IMG_5604.jpg)
(http://i547.photobucket.com/albums/hh446/thekctermite/IMG_5603.jpg)
-
The blank in the picture was flawed a little, so I sacrificed it on the bandsaw for you guys. It is Arizona desert ironwood. :no:
The toneboard should fit pretty snug, but you need to be able to scooch it in and out to tune the call before gluing it in place. So if it is too tight, wipe it with some 220 grit paper by hand to get a good fit.
Note that the uphill end of the tonboard ramp is about 1/16" exposed in the hole. That'll depend on the size of the hole, the angle of the toneboard (and the angle of the air as it hits the forward edge of the hole).
See how sharp those hole edges are? That's critical to making the call blow right.
Once I get them tuned and sounding good I use CA glue to fix them in place. Thin works pretty well, but I always dab some thick CA on the inside and the outside edge to really lock them down. I also make sure that the toneboard is covered in thin CA to keep the moisture from swelling it.
-
The finished product will do the mallard drake, teal, pintail and widgeon. And it'll do them all well. For pintail and widgeon you cover the 2nd hole with your finger. Sure beats those molded plastic cheap-o's I used to use.
Hope this helps clear things up for a few of you!
Aaron
(http://i547.photobucket.com/albums/hh446/thekctermite/IMG_5426.jpg)
-
That should help alot of call makers out. You are right its not rocket science but when you are trying it for the first time it sure seems like it.
Now why in the world did you cut a call in half? You cant use is anymore. :taz:
-
Now why in the world did you cut a call in half?
It's a 'cutdown' duck call :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
-
Thanks for the post and pics man.
Honestly, I'm still scared for some reason. I know that is stupid, but I am.
Parker
-
Now why in the world did you cut a call in half?
I'm having a half price sale on qualifying duck whistles. This particular one qualifies. :smartass:
-
Thanks SO much for all the help, and walking me through this! I understand now! I really appreciate all the work you put into this post! I'm gonna owe you a call soon :up1: I'm making a redo whistle tomorrow now :bigup:
-
You guys are gooood. I tried call making a couple years ago & all I got off the lathe was crap. :yes:
-
Using ironwood for a cutaway tutorial has to hurt, even if it is flawed. Thanks for taking the time, the pictures made the whole process make more sense.
-
I was thinking that my chamfering bit was a 90 degree, but I'm starting to wonder if it is an 82 degree, 3/4" diameter. I'll confirm that when I can.
I've also used a similarly shaped router bit for this task, chucked in the drill and ran at high speed. I know for a fact it was 90 degrees.
Both work ok. The router bit has a little more tendency to chatter though.
-
Thanks SO much for all the help, and walking me through this! I understand now! I really appreciate all the work you put into this post! I'm gonna owe you a call soon :up1: I'm making a redo whistle tomorrow now :bigup:
Happy to help you out Andre. You've got a lot of promise as a call maker, if your carving work is any indication. What I want to see from you is a call imbellished with some carving work!!! :devil2:
-
:huh: You've still got me on this chamfer stuff. I'm looking on FleaBay trying to come up with something to use, and I'm striking out on anything under 20 bucks. Seems like a lot of money to make a little hole.
Parker
-
They're under $20 Parker.
Wal Mart, amazon, etc.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Irwin-High-Speed-Steel-Countersinks-3-4-counter-sink/15672147 (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Irwin-High-Speed-Steel-Countersinks-3-4-counter-sink/15672147)
Tightwad! :rofl:
-
And I threw out 23 $s for mine :mad:! Buying local= buying expensive. I wish I could do a carved call... but I'm not sure how to even approach it... It's more like relief carving and I've never even tried that before, nor do I have the right tools. Maybe I'll get to it one day but time is precious right now :hysterical: I'll figure how to put some carving in soon though... not too crazy but a little... :stuart:
-
They were a LOT easier to find on FleaBay when I put in "countersink" rather than "chamfer". I picked mine up on there just now for $10.95 including shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/EazyPower-3-4-Countersink-5-Flutes-82-p-n-30062-/140388878340?_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D1088847483114737374
Parker
-
I was thinking that my chamfering bit was a 90 degree, but I'm starting to wonder if it is an 82 degree, 3/4" diameter. I'll confirm that when I can.
I've also used a similarly shaped router bit for this task, chucked in the drill and ran at high speed. I know for a fact it was 90 degrees.
Both work ok. The router bit has a little more tendency to chatter though.
Wouldn't a 90* bit be a drill bit? :huh:
Not trying to be a smart a$$. Just thinking out loud.
-
That's what I was thinking too, along the lines of a spiral router bit. But, I don't know anything about that kind of stuff, so I kept my trap shut. :wav1:
Parker
-
If the angles right and the bit is big enough I don't see why you couldn't do it with a bit.
-
If the angles right and the bit is big enough I don't see why you couldn't do it with a bit.
What we're saying really is, we don't understand where the degree measurement is coming from. 90 degrees off of a downward bit to me, would mean you would be getting a flat surface. :huh:
Parker
-
A 90 degree bit yields a 45 degree angle on the sides of the hole. My 82 degree bit gives 41 degree angles.
-
They were a LOT easier to find on FleaBay when I put in "countersink" rather than "chamfer". I picked mine up on there just now for $10.95 including shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/EazyPower-3-4-Countersink-5-Flutes-82-p-n-30062-/140388878340?_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D1088847483114737374
Parker
This product came today. Quick, fast shipping, and looks like what I'm going to need to get the job done 'on the cheap'.
Parker
-
This is a g reat post. I've made hundreds of whistles similar to this, but patterned after the older Iverson whistles. The only functional difference is that your wedge is recessed and I'm thinking easier for some to use. I like your comment about the sharpness of the hole edge too. That is certainly key.
I've always used a drill bit, with a dowel inside to prevent tearout, then used the chamfer bit to clean things up, but I'm going to try your way this weekend.
Are you sure that the hole depth doesn't matter? ie: the distance from the second hole to t he end of the bore? It changes tone for me, if it is too deep.
Thanks.
-
Pete I guess I can't say with 100% certainty that the distance between the 2nd hole and the end of the bore doesn't matter, but I can tell you that I don't pay too much attention to it on mine. I usually drill the bore deep enough to easily clear the 2nd hole. On mine, I run that 7/32" or 1/4" bit all the way through that end of the whistle to allow me to use the expanding mandrel, so you could say that mine are drilled all the way through! When you plug that hole with your finger there is a very subtle difference in sound, but not anything that makes the sound better or worse.
-
KCT, I don't drill all the way thought on some calls I make, and I still use the expanding mandrel. I just tighten the mandrel up so when I must force the call on. Not so much to split the call, but so it is kinda tight. I then run the tailstock up and it's good to turn. Just a thought.
-
Awesome tutorial Aaron! I still make them this way. I have started making a few of them with a 5/8" bore, open ended, single hole. They work and sound just as good and with a little less work!
They are fun to make, easy to do, and you can make most of them with scraps and cut-offs! I do like the bit you are using.... I am going to get a couple. I was drilling a 1/4" hole and beveling it out. Your holes look much cleaner then those I have made.
Thanks for the tip there :beer:
Mutt
-
5/8" bore, open ended, single hole.
:huh: You've got my interest.
Parker
-
I'm sure if everything is proportioned right you could absolutely have great luck with 5/8" bore. Might have to try that myself just for grins.
-
I want to figure out how to do a 1 1/2" keg with a small mouth piece from one end to make an owl hooter out of this type of method!
Parker
-
I want to figure out how to do a 1 1/2" keg with a small mouth piece from one end to make an owl hooter out of this type of method!
Parker
Forstner bit, drilled on the lathe....Then make some sort of 1-1/2" wood mandrel for the drilled keg to slip over while you turn the outside to shape. You could then turn some sort of cap for the end I bet. I have no idea how those things work but I bet we could figure out a way!
-
You could drill out the way KC said then when you are ready to turn the outside put it on a 4 jaw chuck with just enough pressure to hold it.
Or better yet drill it out and turn the first half of the call then flip it around on the 4 jaw chuck and use a hose clamp to keep the 4 jaw from cracking the part turned already. Hope thats clear enough.
-
:rofl: I have no problem drilling and turning the keg. I have a problem making a cylinder of wood sound like an owl hoot. :rofl:
The traditional way, of course, is to add the mouth peice to the outside of the keg on one side. This is not a very stable connection, or a really consistent way to get good sound.
Parker
-
Thanks for posting. great info.
-
What happened to the pictures? :no:
-
I nuked a bunch of what I thought was unused stuff off of photobucket and they must've been in one of the folders. Whoops. :stickman1:
Don't have them on the hard drive anymore so I'll have to re-do it when time allows.
-
I did tht same thing a few years ago Aaron and saw the problem it caused. Now I don't remove anything from photobucket, as I don' tremember everywhere I use the pictue.
-
I drew up a a little sketch (while my kids were coloring so I even used colors :wav1:) of how the internals of these things are set up to replace the pics that got lost from my photobucket account.
-
Awesome tutorial Aaron! If you drill all the way through do you have to put a plug in the end nearest to the second hole or can it be open?
-
Micheal, It all depends on the maker. Aaron leaves the 1/4'' hole open. I use a plug in mine. Most of my whistles are the shot gun shell style so I just plug it and glue a brass end over it.
-
Thanks, I'll have to mess around with that!
-
John, thanks for showing me how you drill out your whistles.... I've made several since our gathering and the drilling is spot on and becoming much easier... the first few took me a while to get the confidence level up. Remember that clear whistle coming off the lathe and hitting me in the hand at Joes?
Regards,
Jeff
-
Glad I was able to pass on a little knowledge. Remember when using the 4 jaw hand tight isn't tight enough. :hysterical:
-
Where can I get the mandrel for this ? I dont thank any thing Ive found will do the job. Thanks
-
I think it's like a 1/4" hole so you can find a pen mandrel to use. I'm sure you could use a different size and match a pen mandrel to it also.
Larry