Finish Questions!

[Dunkler]

This to me can make or break a game call. So I must hear from some guys who have experience here. I was gonna try a different approach to finishes by switching from what I consider a "surface coat" of Spar Urethane to a more penetrating soak in Boiled Linseed Oil. I am considering this change for a couple of reasons. One is because it wont produce thick build up like urethane can, and 2 it will soak into the wood providing more stabilization in varying climates. HOWEVER, I just read something that said that Boiled Linseed Oil can become tacky under warmer weather, but that Teak Oil will dry hard and is a better option. Who here has experience with these 2 oils and can tell me which gives better results. Thanks!

[Bob from Eames Custom Calls]

I'd say you'll want to put something over the BLO, not much protection there. I really like Teak oil,  gives a nice hard satin finish, but not quite as durable as Spar. It's hard to beat Spar as a game call finish, the waterproof finish is hard and durable for calls that see alot of weather.

 Bob

[Two Creeks Calls]

Ive been sanding in teak oil and or BLO depending on the wood. I usually soak calls in either as well if I am not going to finish them in a hurry. After they dry, I do final sanding then a coat of dewaxed shellac and a dip (or as many as I feel are needed) in Spar.

Depending on the wood, 1 dip in Spar over the BLO/Teak/Shellac gives a nice durable satin finish. More dips =higher build and more depth/gloss.

[Jon Kennedy Custom Calls]

I use Teak! but I put in under vac for 30min! works great

[Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks]

BLO is an old school finish.  I've got a couple old duck calls (Olt I think) that seem to have been finished with BLO.  I've done some walnut duck calls that I soaked in BLO and then "burned in" some beeswax on the lathe.  It certainly isn't a hard finish, but they are weathering hard use well.

I use waterlox quite a bit as a finish.  Hard as nails, durable, good looking, builds nicely.  Expensive but worth it.  It does "amber" the wood just like tung oil, as it is polymerized tung oil.

I also use a lot of spar.  Hard to beat that finish if you want a clear coat.

I just got a bottle of Birchwood Casey tru-oil, which is a gun stock finish.  It is pretty much THE gun stock finish.  I think it'll work great as a call finish, at least for walnut calls....And I make a lot of walnut calls.  It dries really fast and looks great.  It does take multiple coats but with as fast as it dries that won't be a big deal.  Gotta do some testing on it before I'm totally sold though.

[Dunkler]

Thanks for all the great ideas guys! I didn't know how well a spar finish would "stick" to the oil treated wood. Another thing I wanna know it when you dip you calls do you just dunk the entire barrel and insert (seperately of course) into the spar? I am having trouble making my inserts fit back into the barrel after it builds up coats, but I am not thining and I am doing 2 coats. Should I be thining it?

I use Teak! but I put in under vac for 30min! works great

Explain this vaccum thing please!

[Tobin at Copeland Duck Calls]

Good post D.  Anyone have some pics of these finishes?  Especially the teak oil. 

[Dunkler]

Good post D.  Anyone have some pics of these finishes?  Especially the teak oil. 

Thanks WC. I'm going to soak my newly turned Osage insert in BLO today. I will post the results in a couple days. If you look at my other post here http://thogamecallsforums.com/index.php/topic,6342.0.html you can see the Spar Urethane Gloss finish.

[stumpjumper]

Teak oil with beeswax burninshed in.  I love this look on cocobolo calls.  Basically waterproof now but no hard outer finish


Spar varnish finish.  Good and hard, clear andn durable.  Does take some getting us to in the dipping process.


Right now I`ve moved onto a CA finish.  It goes on so well, fast, durable and as shiny as Mike Stelzners butt.  Hope to have a pic real soon.

Dunkler,  I dip my entire barrels in a 40/60 mixture 3 times.  Not alot of build up that way and you get the protection.  On the inserts I dip up to the o-ring groove.  The rest gets teak oil applied

STUMP

[Tobin at Copeland Duck Calls]

Stump, could you elaborate some on your teak oil and bees wax finish aplication and........ do you sand between spar dips? 

Thanks,
Tobin

[Dunkler]

Dunkler,  I dip my entire barrels in a 40/60 mixture 3 times.  Not alot of build up that way and you get the protection.  On the inserts I dip up to the o-ring groove.  The rest gets teak oil applied

You answered my question perfectly... I have been having trouble with the finish changing the shape of the tone board ever so slightly and causing a different sound when finish cures.

[stumpjumper]

On the teak/beeswax (or carnuba wax)  Once the call is turned I use thin ca and fill the grain to make her nice and smooth.  Then sand thru to your final grit and remember to sand with the grain between coats.  DON`T skip grits!.  Next get a 100% cotton cloth and apply a good helping of teak oil.  Give a minute to soak in (set lathe to 500 rpms so not to sling the stuff).  Then I use my fingers and work the teak oil in with the lathe running.  Wipe off excess with a clean cloth.  Apply another coat but not as thick this time.  Turn the lathe speed to max and use a shammy to burninsh in the teak oil.  It will thicken up with the heat and should create a slurry of sort.  Clean off the excess and this time simply use a clean area of the shammy and again burnish.  Once that`s done I apply bees wax and burnish in three coats.  I also do this to the inside of the barrel as I have an expandable mandrel and can let 1/2 the call hang off.  Finaly I use the Buel(spelling?) buffing system and buff her up nice and pretty.

On the spar, I use spar VARNISH.  I grain fill with CA and sand thru my grits to 2000.  My spar is mixed 40% spar and 60% mineral spirits.  I dip the call and SLOWLY pull out at an angle.  As BigB once said...1 minute per inch.  Once out I shake the call for a few minutes to help everything level out and then hang.  I don`t have a drip problem with this mix but I always check for drips 10 minutes after I hang the call.  Let dry for 1 day.  I then feel the call with my hands for any dust or nastys.  If there are some I lightly buff with a CLEAN buffing wheel.  Blow her down and dip again.  Same process as the first time.  Again check for nasties buff if needed and dip a third time.  Once she`s good and dry I buff her up and snap some pictures

Hope this helps

STUMP

[Tobin at Copeland Duck Calls]

Perfect.

[Dunkler]

I have soaked an insert for 24 hours in BLO. I took it out of the soak and hung it to dry for a few hours then patted it down to remove the excess oil that wasnt absorbing. I then dipped the exhaust end of the insert up to the cork notch in Spar. Would you guys say that the call is pretty good and water resistant? I don't need to go back and add more finish to the tone board or channel do I?

[Dunkler]

Did you do straight up BLO or cut with mineral spirits as directed??  Let me know how it dries.

I tried this 24 hr soak and will never do it again.  Turned the walnut really dark.  Never dried but I sealed under poly anyways and that never dried.  It was a gooey mess.

I ended up soaking for another 24 in mineral spirits and letting it sit for weeks before I refinished.

Only thing I can think of was the walnut was really open grained and it drank to much and could not handle it

Man, I used straight BLO.... crap, I hope this turns out.....