I'm trying dipping for a finish

[BigB]

I've been trying to read as much as possible on dipping.  And I just dipped my first two barrels.  One in spar urathane the other in polyurathane.

From what I have read, folks say to use steel wool between coats.  My question is:  how do I know if I need to use steel wool and what is the desired result when using the steel wool?  Am I trying to just lightly scuff the surface, or do I need to hit it pretty hard?

Thanks,
Brian

[John_NY]

I'm prretty new at wood turning but on antlers there has been no need for steel wool. I use polycrylic and they end up with a glass like finish. So far with wood if they are sanded to a smooth as glass finish I haven't had to steel wool. I did on one call last week. The finish felt rough so I smoothed it up and the second dipping was just like glass. I think it just depends on the wood and how pouris? it is. I'll be curious to see what the experts have to say.

John

[Waccamaw Calls]

try sanding the piece smooth before the first dip, gently spray with warm water and spin on the lathe and sand one more time (wetting with warm water will raise the grain). Then use a clean lint free cloth and buff the piece a final time to clean it.
then dip in poly, let drip, the lightly blow off the bubbles if any. Set on coated cardboard to cath run off, waith a few minutes then hang to dry.
If you do have any hanging dips at this stage blot them with a paper towel.

Once dry to the touch, dip again and hang.
Yes I know (no sanding between coats). Try it once just to see
Bill

[BigB]

I assembled a cheap cabinet to store my dipping supplies and hang the calls in.








I dipped them for the second coat tonight.  The first coat looked pretty good.  I didn't try to raise the grain before the first dip.  Just used my normal sanding ritual and buffing ritual.  The grain didn't raise on either call.  The finish was smooth, and didn't have any dust on it.  I've caught the drips so far, and I'll post a closeup pic of them tomorrow night.

[Braz]

That's a fine looking cabinet and a great idea. I'm sure it will really help keep dust, etc from the freshly dipped surface. I may have to give that a try myself. Thanks for the idea!

[VECtor Calls]

I'm thinking the cabinet would be a great idea for my dusty shop too.  Thanks for posting that idea.

Parker

[Bob from Eames Custom Calls]

I dip almost all of my calls. I use laquer (Deft) and Spar for everything. I dip everything twice, with a few hour between. Then I let the calls sit for a few days, and let the finish get really hard. Then I'll spin them on the lathe and lightly hit them with very fine steel wool, just to scratch them up and level them out a bit. Then one more dip and a few days to dry.

 Now for the big trick. I alway cut my dipping material by 50% with a thinner (Laquer thinner for Deft, and Turpentine for Spar). This allows the material to run off of the calls, and I don't get so many drips the occur late. I also add 1oz per quart of Japan drier to the spar, which helps the drying process alot.

 Hope this helps.

 Bob

[VECtor Calls]

Lots of good information there!  I bought Mineral Spirits to cut something, and I thought it was the Spar.  Is that right?  I'm gonna have to start mixing and playing soon.  This sounds like SUCH a better way to get a nice finish on calls.

Parker

[BigB]

I am going to try some Spar Varnish next, as well as some polyacrylic.  I didn't cut the finishes with anything yet, and I'll try that next. 

I think I am going to move the shelf in the cabinet up a few holes, and then add another shelf above the quarts of finish.  That way I'll have a double decker dipping cabinet ;D


Bob, are you using Spar varnish or Spar urathane?



Thanks,
Brian

[Bob from Eames Custom Calls]

Spar Urethane. Works like a champ.

 Bob

[HaMeR]

Another way to control dust is to turn a styrofoam cooler upside down over your turnings while they dry. The styrofoam will attract the dust & keep it off your turnings. HTH

[dogcatcher]

I use a box that has one side that is a AC filter.  It allows air to move inside of the box, sort of like BigB's wall cabinet, except it has a wall with that has the AC filter.  Just built a couple of weeks ago out packing crate so far so good.  If I ever get a chance I will put a micro computer equipment fan so that it works as an exhaust allowing a little more air movement though out the box.  With a fan the pulling air though the filter and exhausting the fumes out of the box it should only have to run for an hour or so.  Really an ugly thing but like I said it works.

Marvin

[Braz]

Marvin, that is a great idea. I'm going to have to try some of these ideas.

[BigB]

Here are the barrels before the finish:




Here are the results after the two coats:

The finish on the left is the poly and the finish on the right is the spar urathane. 




I am not quite satisfied with the poly.  I didn't thin it, and that may be a bit of the problem.  It didn't have any runs in it, but there were areas that didn't get an even finish coat.  I rotated the barrels 180 degrees between dips in an attempt to prevent this, but I still saw them just on the poly barrel.

Here's my hanger setup:


I may have to rethink my hangers.  I thought that a tension fit may work well, but it leaves some nasty clumps in the barrel where the hanger was touching.


Will thinning the poly or spar resolve this, or is it a problem with my hangers?


Overall, I think the spar is winning at this point.

[Waccamaw Calls]

very very nice !!