Author Topic: Tutuorial on mandrel turning- Inserts with a blind mandrel  (Read 9319 times)

Offline Bob from Eames Custom Calls

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Tutuorial on mandrel turning- Inserts with a blind mandrel
« on: April 12, 2009, 04:15:24 PM »
This is the second part of the tutorial, just decided to break it up to keep the sections small. You'll want to go through the same procedure to drill your block for the insert that you did for the barrel, so I won't go through the setup twice. I showed this with a block of clear acrylic to better show the setup of using the drill bit and a washer as a blind mandrel. Thanks to Marvin (Dogcatcher) for showing me this trick when I first started out.

Drill your tone channel hole to depth.



 Take the same drill bit you used to drill the hole with and chuck it up in a drill chuck mounted in the headstock of your lathe. Put a 1/4" washer over the drill bit to act as a clutch of sorts, this will save your work if you get a really bad catch...... sometimes! The drill chuck was one I found at harbout freight for $12.



 Slide the insert blank on to the bit, and move the tailstock up to add pressure to the end. Tighten the tailstock and lock it down. The pressure from the tailstock allows you to keep the piece spinning with the drive, so if it starts to slip, tighten up the tailstock to add a bit more pressure. PLEASE NOTE:The drill bit should be shorter than the depth of the hole! The Blank will ride between the washer next to the drill chuck and the live center in the tailstock. Make sure that the drill bit doesn't bottom out in the hole or it will mess up the end of your tone channel and become loose!



 There you go guys, just enough info to get you into trouble. Go make some chips and post up some pictures!

 Bob
« Last Edit: September 17, 2013, 06:24:48 PM by Bob from Eames Custom Calls »
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Offline harvey8542

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Re: Tutuorial on mandrel turning- Inserts with a blind mandrel
« Reply #1 on: April 13, 2009, 12:47:36 AM »
 Very cool :bigup: :bigup: :bigup:
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Offline Lonehowl

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Re: Tutuorial on mandrel turning- Inserts with a blind mandrel
« Reply #2 on: April 13, 2009, 10:05:54 AM »
Again, thats how I do it. Ive been making some wood crow call guts here and there, and this is how I turn them to shape, before I split them. This method keeps the tone channel nice and straight.

I was driling them out on the metal lathe, but this has proven just as good and in most cases, better.
Good work.

Offline schwert

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Re: Tutuorial on mandrel turning- Inserts with a blind mandrel
« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2009, 06:24:55 PM »
Thanks....I think this is just enough to get me in to some sort of trouble... ::)


I am going to try a sprig whistle as my first project.  I had been waiting until I could afford the collet chuck from PSI..I had not considered using a jacobs chuck.....especially a HF one.

Thanks, I am going to try this whistle plan from Pete Woolley.

http://thogamecalls.com/forums/index.php/topic,1499.0.html

Offline Bob from Eames Custom Calls

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Re: Tutuorial on mandrel turning- Inserts with a blind mandrel
« Reply #4 on: April 21, 2009, 10:09:31 PM »
I've done several, and his plan works great. Good luck with it, and post up a picture or two when you get it done!

 Bob
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Offline schwert

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Re: Tutuorial on mandrel turning- Inserts with a blind mandrel
« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2009, 10:16:25 PM »
Thanks Bob I will  (don't hold your breath waiting though...my projects can drag on for ages).

I have a pack of 1" cocobolo pen blanks that should work up nicely.

I was real happy to find his post on that whistle....once I read it I knew I could turn one (eventually that is).

Seven bucks at HF for the chuck and I have no more excuses....

Offline Vamp

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Re: Tutuorial on mandrel turning- Inserts with a blind mandrel
« Reply #6 on: January 25, 2010, 01:03:36 PM »
What is the overall length you cut these down to before drilling? Raw Stock

Offline dogcatcher

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Re: Tutuorial on mandrel turning- Inserts with a blind mandrel
« Reply #7 on: January 25, 2010, 01:10:37 PM »
What is the overall length you cut these down to before drilling? Raw Stock

This will depend on your design and the jig you are using.  Start with 5" and work in or out for what you want.  I have one design I use 4" blanks on another I use 5.5", but if I switch jigs they go to 4.5" and 6". 

Marvin
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Offline Bob from Eames Custom Calls

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Re: Tutuorial on mandrel turning- Inserts with a blind mandrel
« Reply #8 on: January 25, 2010, 02:10:28 PM »
Mine are 4" inserts, but usually end up about 3 3/4".

 Marvin is right, it's all dependent on your design!

 Bob
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Offline HTM_Calls

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Re: Tutuorial on mandrel turning- Inserts with a blind mandrel
« Reply #9 on: October 30, 2012, 09:24:21 PM »
If I want to have a tapered tone channel (so the hole gets bigger at the end of the insert, I don't know the proper term fro this) would I drill starting with a 1/4" drill bit go to my wanted length, then take say a 3/8" bit and only go down a very small part of the insert, and keep doing that till you get the wanted size? Also would I still be able to use the 1/4" drill bit with a washer still as a mandrel?

Offline R.FINCHUM

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Re: Tutuorial on mandrel turning- Inserts with a blind mandrel
« Reply #10 on: January 25, 2013, 08:06:53 AM »
 :bow:I am really new to this forum but I wanted you to be the first one i contacted. Before I saw your tutorial I wasted so much wood I thought about giving up inserts and basically calls. I may have gotten 2 of ten right. I know that doesnt say much about my wood working skills but I got tired of using 2" wood to get a 5/8 insert because of bad drilling. I used all kinds of jigs and devices to hold it straight. Nothing worked for long. I saw the tutor. and started using it and I cant say its foolproof, cause being pretty much of one, anything can be screwed with enough effort.But I really can say I havent messed one up since. I have gained years of knowledge from this forum and want to say to all you experienced turners, thanks from the bottom of my heart and my wood stack.   Ray Finchum