Screw chuck

[Rick Howard]

I'm always concerned with getting the most out of what I have.  I found a way to use what I had on hand to minimize waste on a striker blank.  With a piece of delrin and a drywall screw I made this.



To make it: I took a scrap piece of delrin and chucked in into my collet chuck.  Used a drill chuck in the tail stock to drill a hole trough it.  I recessed the hole, chamfered the edge, and squared the small rim left over.  Then I flipped it around and counter sunk the hole so the drywall screw would fit flush.  Run the drywall screw though the hole and its done. 

I forgot to take a photo with the piece chucked up.  Sorry.  If someone wants I can take one in the future.  To mount a blank I marked a center with a square then used a power drill to screw it into the blank.  Then mounted it to the head stock using the collet chuck.  60 degree in the tail stock.  (I have some ideas for this end too).

I made two strikers with it.  To make a striker with 7 3/4" OAL I used a 1 x 1 x 8" blank.

Obvious pros and cons here but...  Things I like were: smaller stock to start.  Increasesd work room near headstock.  Accidental tool contact with the delrin, while working that end, is not harmful to the tool.  Thing I dislike is the hole left over from mounting. 

I have some ideas for improvments already.  This was the first one and its trial run seems good enough to think on it some more.

Any thoughts? 

[VECtor Calls]

I would sure like to see the additional pic/pics.

Great work making a tool.  We don't have to be restricted to what we can buy in the store.

[Rick Howard]

I should be abke to get into the shop this weekend.  Anything in particular you want a photo of?

[dogcatcher]

To fix the hole left by the screw, drill out the screw hole out with a 1/4" bit and plug that hole with a small piece of wood dowel.  Done right it will look like a round inlay.  You can get dowels in different woods to make them contrasting colors.  Or simply dye some white birch or maple dowels. 

This should work with a 1/8" dowel, be easier and then you could then plug the hole a short piece of brass or copper rod.  I think the the brass inlay would add class to the design. 

Marvin

[Rick Howard]

Marvin that is a great idea.  Thank you.  I was considering a cap for the end. 

Lol  a few days ago I was thinking of using metal rod to change the weight of a striker.  I'm not far into the turkey call adventure.  I only just learned to run a pot call.  But from the little experimenting I have done it seems the softer and lighter woods grab a little well but sometimes stutter if im not careful.  Without making the striker very thick I figured I might drill a hole and slip a a metal rod of some sort in the hole for a little extra weight.  Should help me figure out i whats what's. 

[VECtor Calls]

I should be abke to get into the shop this weekend.  Anything in particular you want a photo of?

I would just suggest taking photos of parts as they are being inserted half-way, and then each part as it is set up for turning, so everyone can fully understand the setup.

[Rick Howard]

Well instead of work today... We have a few extra days off.  So I took photos and had a little fun.

I used a 2" drywall screw and a 5/8" diameter 1 1/4" long scrap delrin.  These are the parts lol. 

Chucked the delrin in my collet chuck and using the drill chuck with a 1/8" bit I drilled a hole through the delrin.  This gives me a well centered hole with no measuring. 

I used my skew to create a small recess around the hole.  The I used the skew to chamfer the outer edge.  Then used the skew to square up the remaing rim.  I did this for a few reason.  Like back cutting a tenon it leaves only a small area to square up with the turning stock.  This will be the end in contat with your work so it Gives ya a nice tight fit this way.

Next I took the delrin out of the chuck, flipped it around, and put it back into the chuck.  Then recessed the hole on that side (counter sink for the head of the screw).
 
With a power drill I ran the drywall screw through the hole.  I left the delrin in the collet for this part as it was easier than holding onto the little sucker.

Not the best look at it but I could not get it to show well.







I drilled a small pilot hole to help prevent splitting  while ramming a pretty coarse screw into the end grain of small stock.  I get it started by hand then run it the rest of the way with the power drill.



Here is a good look at the chamfer on the outside edge and how the piece is mounted using the screw chuck.





Seems to work.

[VECtor Calls]

Very cool!  If you replaced the screw with a bolt the size of a striker dowel sold by Brookside/Custom Sawing/Grassy Creek/etc., you coul have your bolt hole end up being the hole for the dowel, and you just turn the head of the striker. The dowel would be perfectly centered for the striker head too.

[Rick Howard]

I have some carbon rod on order.  You idea was my exact plan. 1/4 20  bolt with the head but off ought to do it.  Works for bottle stopper using a 3/8 bolt.  My buffing wheels are the same principal with 1/2 bolts. 

I'm making one piece strikers right now.  Previously I was chucking the blanks in a 4 jaw and cuttin a tenon.  I would then change chucks and put the tenon in the collect.  That method gave me very little wiggle room near the headstock.  Also changing back and forth was kinda annoying.  With the screw chuck it leaves a hole but...  There are options for that.  I like Marvin's idea a lot.  I filled two with solder today.  That worked well.  I cut a tenon on one so I can fit a cap over the end.

I will pick up some small jaws for the 4 jaw eventually but I think the screw chuck is gonna stick.  Little waste... More work room...  I like it.  I'm having lots of fun.  Strikers are way fun to turn.  I deffinstely need to work on sharpening my tools though lol. 

[dogcatcher]

When you cut the head off the bolt, cross cut the end with an X, then file the saw cuts to look like a spur drive.  It will be inside so the damage won't show, but it will help to keep the blank from spinning. 

For your drying rack, drive some small finish nails in a board, that little hole will fit them.  No need for the wire rack.  Then finish the end which ever way you want. 

Marvin

[Rick Howard]

Tacked a little angle iron to that pathetic tool rest I was using. 



Filled with solder.  Used a counter sink to make the hole a little bigger.  Not perfect but I think its good enough. 

[VECtor Calls]

Looks good, and unique to me!