Author Topic: De-mystifying the duck whistle  (Read 100025 times)

Offline Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks

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De-mystifying the duck whistle
« on: July 02, 2011, 10:27:36 PM »
A few months back I got a little help making my first whistle from Mutt.  Now I'm helping thedecoydude with his first.  I've received a number of PMs from folks about making them so I'm going to give you guys enough info to get started making your own. 

First, I drill a 1/2" hole into my blank, probably about 2-1/2" to 2-3/4" deep.  It isn't super critical, you just need to drill past where the 2nd hole will be.  I use an expanding mandrel as a crush mandrel or you can plug the end and drill your hole all the way through so you can use it as an expander. 

Then I turn the blank round and mark my holes.  I do not use a drill bit to drill them.  I use a chamfering bit with a lot of cutting edges.  Irwin makes mine and it is a 90 degree.  I insert a 1/2" dowel into the call so the tip of the bit is fully supported all the way down.  The dowel also prevents blowout on the inside of the call and leaves a pretty clean edge.  They tend to chatter, but if you drill at high speed with the call mounted in a vise (and go slow), it works on any material.  Getting a sharp edge on the hole is critical.  Simply drilling a hole and leaving it squared off will absolutely prevent your whistle from whistling.   


Now that I've got my holes drilled, I put her back on the lathe and turn my whistle to shape.  This is just like any call....You find a shape to make them look uniquely your own.  The outside shape doesn't really do much of anything to the sound. 
Here's how mine look when they're done being drilled and turned....I don't think they look like anyone else's on the outside, at least I hope they don't.
« Last Edit: September 29, 2012, 01:58:10 PM by Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks »

Offline Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks

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Re: De-mystifying the duck whistle
« Reply #1 on: July 02, 2011, 10:30:25 PM »
Now you have to make a toneboard.  Make it from 1/2" dowel.  I've also made them from 1/2" delrin plastic, or you could use acrylic.  I use a disc sander to make mine.  I clamp the dowel in a handscrew clamp and push it into the sander to get the profile in the picture.  It isn't rocket science but you're basically creating an uphill ramp that'll force the air into the edge of the first hole you cut on the call blank.


Offline Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks

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Re: De-mystifying the duck whistle
« Reply #2 on: July 02, 2011, 10:39:52 PM »
The blank in the picture was flawed a little, so I sacrificed it on the bandsaw for you guys.  It is Arizona desert ironwood.   :no:

The toneboard should fit pretty snug, but you need to be able to scooch it in and out to tune the call before gluing it in place.  So if it is too tight, wipe it with some 220 grit paper by hand to get a good fit. 

Note that the uphill end of the tonboard ramp is about 1/16" exposed in the hole.  That'll depend on the size of the hole, the angle of the toneboard (and the angle of the air as it hits the forward edge of the hole).

See how sharp those hole edges are?  That's critical to making the call blow right. 

Once I get them tuned and sounding good I use CA glue to fix them in place.  Thin works pretty well, but I always dab some thick CA on the inside and the outside edge to really lock them down.  I also make sure that the toneboard is covered in thin CA to keep the moisture from swelling it. 
« Last Edit: September 29, 2012, 02:06:51 PM by Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks »

Offline Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks

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Re: De-mystifying the duck whistle
« Reply #3 on: July 02, 2011, 10:42:34 PM »
The finished product will do the mallard drake, teal, pintail and widgeon.  And it'll do them all well.  For pintail and widgeon you cover the 2nd hole with your finger.  Sure beats those molded plastic cheap-o's I used to use.  

Hope this helps clear things up for a few of you!

Aaron

« Last Edit: July 02, 2011, 10:46:06 PM by theKCtermite »

Offline jcz

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Re: De-mystifying the duck whistle
« Reply #4 on: July 02, 2011, 10:44:04 PM »
That should help alot of call makers out. You are right its not rocket science but when you are trying it for the first time it sure seems like it.

Now why in the world did you cut a call in half? You cant use is anymore.  :taz:
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Offline Nelson Woodworks

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Re: De-mystifying the duck whistle
« Reply #5 on: July 02, 2011, 11:55:57 PM »
Now why in the world did you cut a call in half?

It's a 'cutdown' duck call  :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
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Offline VECtor Calls

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Re: De-mystifying the duck whistle
« Reply #6 on: July 03, 2011, 12:11:20 AM »
Thanks for the post and pics man.

Honestly, I'm still scared for some reason.  I know that is stupid, but I am.

Parker
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Offline Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks

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Re: De-mystifying the duck whistle
« Reply #7 on: July 03, 2011, 12:13:44 AM »
Now why in the world did you cut a call in half?

I'm having a half price sale on qualifying duck whistles.  This particular one qualifies.  :smartass:

Offline Andre's Wood Works aka: TheDecoyDude

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Re: De-mystifying the duck whistle
« Reply #8 on: July 03, 2011, 02:17:44 AM »
Thanks SO much for all the help, and walking me through this! I understand now! I really appreciate all the work you put into this post! I'm gonna owe you a call soon  :up1: I'm making a redo whistle tomorrow now :bigup:

Offline HaMeR

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Re: De-mystifying the duck whistle
« Reply #9 on: July 03, 2011, 09:03:23 AM »
You guys are gooood. I tried call making a couple years ago & all I got off the lathe was crap.  :yes:
RIP Russ,Blaine,& Darrell!!

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Offline Jon @ JRwoods

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Re: De-mystifying the duck whistle
« Reply #10 on: July 03, 2011, 12:30:49 PM »
Using ironwood for a cutaway tutorial has to hurt, even if it is flawed.  Thanks for taking the time,  the pictures made the whole process make more sense.
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Offline Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks

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Re: De-mystifying the duck whistle
« Reply #11 on: July 03, 2011, 12:47:00 PM »
I was thinking that my chamfering bit was a 90 degree, but I'm starting to wonder if it is an 82 degree, 3/4" diameter.  I'll confirm that when I can. 

I've also used a similarly shaped router bit for this task, chucked in the drill and ran at high speed.  I know for a fact it was 90 degrees. 

Both work ok.  The router bit has a little more tendency to chatter though. 

Offline Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks

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Re: De-mystifying the duck whistle
« Reply #12 on: July 03, 2011, 12:49:11 PM »
Thanks SO much for all the help, and walking me through this! I understand now! I really appreciate all the work you put into this post! I'm gonna owe you a call soon  :up1: I'm making a redo whistle tomorrow now :bigup:

Happy to help you out Andre.  You've got a lot of promise as a call maker, if your carving work is any indication.  What I want to see from you is a call imbellished with some carving work!!!    :devil2:

Offline VECtor Calls

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Re: De-mystifying the duck whistle
« Reply #13 on: July 03, 2011, 01:04:51 PM »
 :huh:  You've still got me on this chamfer stuff.  I'm looking on FleaBay trying to come up with something to use, and I'm striking out on anything under 20 bucks.  Seems like a lot of money to make a little hole. 

Parker
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Offline Aaron at Wingerts Woodworks

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Re: De-mystifying the duck whistle
« Reply #14 on: July 03, 2011, 01:13:39 PM »
They're under $20 Parker. 

Wal Mart, amazon, etc.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Irwin-High-Speed-Steel-Countersinks-3-4-counter-sink/15672147

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